Glorious Gourmet Food in Paris - Part I

By Phil Chavanne

If there's one thing the French know how to do well, it's food. Food is more of an art (and for some, a quasi religion) in France, and so I knew I would be remiss in my duties to readers of paris-eiffel-tower-news if I did not go and seek out Paris's finest gastronomic glories for you. Sampling the following is not an option – it's a must!!!

Say Cheese!

Beside wine, what else are the French obsessed with? Cheese! The French passion for cheese and the proliferation of the stuff in their country is frankly unsurpassed. A famous quote from Charles de Gaulle goes, "How can you be expected to govern a country that has 246 kinds of cheese?"

The French are as serious about their cheese as they are about their wine, and so it comes as no surprise that, like wine, French cheese is protected by AOC laws (appellation d'origine contrôlée, name of a controlled origin). These laws allow only certain limited quantities of a particular cheese to be produced in order to prevent mass production ruining the subtle variations in French regional cheeses.

So, in search of the ultimate cheese repast, I asked my Parisian friends where the cheese crème de la crème (no pun intended) was to be found in France's capital. The answer was unanimous: "Androuet!"

And Androuet it was. I wandered over to their fromagerie (cheese shop) at 37, rue de Verneuil and was greeted with the most tantalizing displays of cheeses – you have to see it to believe it! The cheeses look a far sight different than what they laughingly call cheese in supermarkets – this is the real enchilada.

Family owned and run, Androuet was founded back in 1909 by the current owner's grandfather, and since then its people have been cultivating the art of the maître fromager affineur (cheese maturing master). The name is famous worldwide. Today, and to the great benefit of the Parisian population, the house of Androuet actually comprises 5 fine cheese shops in Paris alone and plans to open another one in the new Roissy airport! They even have a branch in Stockholm, Sweden's capital.

Androuet's cheeses hail from more than 200 different locations and are all exclusively made with raw milk. Each cheese is unique, cured and matured under the supervision of maîtres affineurs (masters in cheese ripening), and aged or prepared in curing cellars. You'll find Androuet's shops in all Parisian tourist guides, and I was told that their clientèle comes from all over the world – from the US to Japan.

Cheese is best accompanied with bread and wine, and Androuet specializes in the best. They provide a wide range of wines, from red Sancerre to Chateau Neuf du Pape, and work with two Parisian bakeries to supply you with some very decent bread to go with your cheese.

So you can get your cheese, your wine and your bread all in one fell swoop, as well as excellent advice on all three free of charge. The staff speaks English, and a variety of other languages, so communication shouldn't be much of a problem... failing that, animated gesticulations punctuated by the odd use of random foreign words have always worked wonders for me abroad...

For those who want to take some of this priceless loot back home, Androuet provides air-tight and vacuum-sealed packages.

For Americans, you can check the US Customs & Border Protection website for the latest on food importing rules at help.cbp.gov, or the US Department of Agriculture's website (www.usda.gov). At the moment, they confirm that cured cheeses (i.e. hard cheeses like parmesan and cheddar) are generally admissible if imported for personal use, although this is subject to change depending on disease outbreaks. Keep in mind that you should declare them. Ask for advice from Androuet's staff – they'll be in the know about this.

A buffet-size assortment goes from 35 to 70 euros, and they do themed gourmet gift baskets, boxes and chests too. They even cater for private or business cheese-themed buffets with the whole nine yards: fresh and dried fruit, Poilane or Poujauran breads (see below), wine, candles, floral decorations etc.

Androuet in Paris (normal working hours Tuesday to Saturday, and they all close at 7:30 pm):

37, rue de Verneuil - 75007 Paris
Metro: Rue du Bac, Solférino (line 12).

134, rue Mouffetard - 75005 Paris
Metro: Censier Daubenton (line 7).

1, rue Bois le Vent - 75016 Paris
Metro: La Muette (line 9), Passy (line 6).

17, rue des Belles-Feuilles - 75016 Paris
Metro: Victor Hugo (line 2), Trocadéro (lines 6, 9).

23, rue de la Terrasse - 75017 Paris
Metro: Villiers (lines 2, 3).

Real French Bread

In France, almost anyone will tell you that Poilane bread is the pinnacle of Parisian baking. First established 75 years ago, Poilane is now run by Lionel Poilane, who took over the business from his father about 30 years ago and boomed it: the shop sells 15,000 loaves of bread each day, i.e. 2.5% of all bread sold in Paris, by weight.

The secret of Poilane bread is steeped in tradition. Lionel himself conducted an extensive research project on the 'ethnography', as he put it himself, of his craft. Poilane bread is made from wheat grown only on farms employing sustainable techniques with sea salt from the French Atlantic Coast. It's baked for over an hour in Poilane's specially designed wood-burning ovens, and will easily keep for a week in its original white and green paper bag.

Poilane bread traces its heritage back to the genuine regional French bread, but the business is remarkably modern. Today, the family manages a new shop in London and a 'manufacture' on the outskirts of Paris producing the goods that are sold in more than 2,500 restaurants and shops in Paris alone, and about 20 countries around the world. Poilane is one of the few 'global bakers' today, taking advantage of the Internet and the large FedEx hub near the Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle airport to ship the bread worldwide. The goods land on dinner tables within 48 hours of their cooking.

The bread itself is decidedly old school: thick, chewy, and rich with a dark, fire-tinged flavor. Traditional French bread is not the ubiquitous white bread used in baguettes. It used to be a dark, wholesome stuff eaten by poor people when they could not afford anything else. It almost disappeared from French tables because of its very history. So much so that the old saying "He ate his white bread..." means that he mused and fooled around instead of working diligently, and now he's in for hard times (and only dark bread).

After World War II, the height of chic was white bread, imported from Austria. Poilane is very unique in that in a city where you can't walk two blocks without running into a baguette, he refuses to produce any!

Poilane's bread has won him famous fans over the years: Frank Sinatra and Lauren Bacall used to enjoy a loaf from time to time, and Robert De Niro is a customer.

There's one person in the shop who speaks English, who confirmed taking bread back to the US is no problem.

Poilane's famous bread can be found at 8, rue Cherche Midi, 75006 Paris. The closest metro station is Sevres-Babylone.

About the Author:

With thirty years of on-the-ground experience Phil Chavanne has helped many travelers to make the best of their stay in Paris. You can share his thorough knowledge of the city at Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News, a free guide with many advices, stories, and tips on Paris Hotels and Restaurants.

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Glorious Gourmet Food in Paris, Part 2

Glorious Gourmet Food in Paris - Part II

By Phil Chavanne

In Part I, we discovered Paris's finest fromageries in Androuet's 5 Parisian cheese shops and real French bread at Poilane's. Now, we bring to you two more of those glorious Parisian gourmet food places.

Lafayette Gourmet – a Riot of Tastes and Colors

The Galeries Lafayette is one of the most distinguished and famous shopping landmarks in Paris. Their high-fashion displays and grand old-world architecture (including a very fine stained-glass dome) make any shopping there a remarkable experience. I have to admit though that I tend to spend most of my time loitering around its breathtaking Gourmet food court.

The food court is located on the top floor of the Galeries, and is a veritable riot of tastes and colors. There you'll find everything and more to tantalize the dedicated gourmet: a bakery with a dizzying array of specialty breads and pastries (testament to France's continuing love affair with baked goods of every description); a cheese counter with at least a hundred different varieties of cheese (both French and imported); meats and seafood; a deli offering the very best specialty foodstuffs; and fruit and veggies of every origin from all around the world — all products flawlessly fresh.

There is even a large section dedicated to every spice imaginable. The luxury chocolate and candy displays are worth a prolonged visit. I usually stock up here on all kinds of European chocolates when I'm in town as many brands can't be found in the US and all of them are sold cheaper in Paris.

To top things off, Lafayette Gourmet also boasts a 'wine library' unlike any other: 1,800 of the world's finest wines, classified and presented with enough loving attention to satisfy demanding wine connoisseurs.

40, boulevard Haussmann 75009 PARIS
Metro: Chaussée d'Antin La Fayette

BE – Tasty and Classy

Boulangépicier, or 'BE' for short, is owned by two of Paris's most famed and respected chef and baker: Alain Ducasse and Eric Keyser, respectively.

BE's name and concept result of the fusion of 'boulanger' (baker) and 'épicier' (grocer). Its culinary creations are inspired by simple, traditional French recipes.

BE is housed in a smart, typically Parisian building located not too far from the Arc de Triomphe, and close to the Parc Monceau. This makes it an ideal spot for a take-away lunch near one of Paris's loveliest green expanse.

On sale is a carefully selected range of fine products and a tempting selection of sandwiches, homemade soups and fresh salads as well as pastries and desserts, whether to take away or eat in (there is a seating area that takes about ten).

On the grocery front, BE sells a range of gourmet goods (unusual spices, condiments, jams, chocolate, candy, pasta etc.), and a small selection of organic produce and dairy products.

On the bakery front, they sell Mr. Keyser's renowned breads, made on the premises, whether as a loaf to take home or in the mouth-watering array of ready-made sandwiches. I had never actually tasted Keyser bread, and was genuinely surprised to find that it was far superior to almost anything I tried from other Parisian bakeries, including the famous Paujauran bread.

The array of breads is carefully displayed; they are made from various combinations of high-quality ingredients and are all at once tasty, crusty, fresh and moist, a welcome break from the ubiquitous mass-produced chewy white bread.

I was particularly intrigued by their concept of 'Sandwich Brochettes', an assortment of mini-sandwiches on skewers. After much deliberation, I went for the 'Brochette Riviera', which was comprised of little buns of black olive bread filled with tapenade (olive paste) and slices of fresh goat cheese; tomato buns filled with tomato 'caviar' and basil turkey; and then basil buns filled with pesto and sun-dried tomatoes. Wise choice.

I washed down the lot with a bottle of Orezza, a sparking mineral water sourced from springs near Rappagio in Corsica. I'd never tasted it before, and had expected to find the more common French mineral water brands such as Chateldon and Badoit, but it was a pleasant surprise – Orezza has a fine flinty aftertaste and delicate levels of natural gas.

Naturally, this 'designer food' isn't the cheapest: sandwiches start at 5 euros, and my Brochette Riviera set me back 7.5 euros. But it was worth every cent.

Tuck into BE's tasty and classy food on the go or to take away at 73, boulevard de Courcelles, 75008 Paris

About the Author:

Phil Chavanne and his team of Parisian writers share the goods on Paris and Paris hotels with travelers who wish to prepare well for their trip to the French capital. Meet the team at Paris-Eiffel-Tower-News.com: A Paris guide full of inside information on Paris and Paris hotels.

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Glorious Gourmet Food in Paris, Part 3

Glorious Gourmet Food in Paris - Part III

By Phil Chavanne

This third part, for the icing on the cake (no pun intended), brings you two more Parisian gastronomic wonders, with first a dessert: Berthillon's simply outstanding range of ice creams and sorbets on the charming St-Louis island.

And Now for a Spot of Dessert...

I think it's safe to say that Berthillon sets the standard for ice cream and sorbet... Not only in Paris, but all of France – and quite possibly, the world.

Berthillon's typically Parisian ice cream parlor is located right in the middle of the Ile St-Louis, a small island on the Seine River which is itself a major tourist attraction. The St Louis Island is a charming little miniature Paris with quaint restaurants and hotels. In the early 20th century, its inhabitants fancied their specificity, and 'seceded' from France to become the 'Republic of the St Louis Island'. One of those French loopy ideas!

Most of the food stores, tea parlors, and restaurants on the St-Louis Island advertise that they stock Berthillon ice cream. Yet there's only one Berthillon tea parlor. The company is owned and operated by the Chauvin family, descendants of the eponymous Monsieur Berthillon who opened the first shop in 1954. The parlor is smart, wood-paneled inside and out, an elegant version of Friendly's in America.

Berthillon sells its ice cream in bulk and by the scoop from its parlor, but many other retailers in Paris sell their ice cream in cones and cups, and some grocers sell larger amounts.

Any guilt you may feel at indulging can be laid to rest because Berthillon's fame derives in part from its use of natural ingredients. Their sweets contain absolutely no chemical preservatives, sweeteners, or stabilizers. The ice cream is made with nothing else than milk, cream and eggs, and the flavorings are natural: cocoa, vanilla, fruit etc.

In terms of flavor, we go way beyond 'Chunky Monkey' and 'Fish Food'. Get ready for something altogether more refined and, in the final analysis, much more tantalizing for the old taste buds (which should be stimulated rather than assaulted). We're talking pear sorbet that tastes to me more of pear than an actual pear does; green apple; wild strawberry ("fraise des bois"); coffee; honey nougat; prune Armagnac... All to die for.

Keep in mind that the French don't scoff, they 'déguste' (savor with relish) – so if you're expecting large Ben & Jerry's portions like you get in the US, you'll be disillusioned. But then again, that may not be so bad as far as our waist-lines are concerned...

Unfortunately, Berthillon's excellence is no secret. There is always a long line of eager customers no matter when you go, and it's even worse during hot weather. Trust me though, the trip is worth it.

I do like their hours though – open from 10 am with a late 8 pm closing time, I know my evening cravings will be catered for – well, at least from Wednesday to Sunday, as sadly they are closed the rest of the week. Also, much to my chagrin, I found out the place is not opened for business during a large part of the summer holidays (a relatively common occurrence in France). Yet all is not lost since we can always get our Berthillon fix from the other ice cream shops and tea parlors on the Island!

For a taste of Bertillon's habit-forming, gourmet glories, get onto Ile Saint-Louis: walk down the left side of Notre Dame; at the back of the Cathedral, cross the bridge to your left onto Ile Saint-Louis; then, hang a right on Rue St-Louis en l'Ile, and go to number 31 on the right side of the street. Or go by Metro and get off at the Pont Marie station, and cross the bridge. When you get to the central street of the island, make a hard left, and the shop stands right there, on the opposite sidewalk.

Go Organic Parisian Style

Paris is renowned for its local street food markets, which can be found in nearly every one if its quartiers (districts). The Rue Cler market is a very famous one, the Rue de Levis is another one almost as famous. The wonderful symbiosis of 'traditional and parochial' with the 'grand and capital' undoubtedly lends Paris its unique character.

Personally, Parisian street markets appeal to me because they offer a rare respite from the bland, cookie-cut supermarket retail experience and because, just like the proverbial box of chocolates in Forest Gump, 'you never know what you're gonna get'. Not only do I always seem to discover something I never even knew existed, but the quality and freshness of the produce is high and the whole experience in general is less clinical and more... well, fun.

Parisian open street markets usually operate off touristy alleys and are held either on a weekly or bi-weekly basis. The stalls get set up early in the morning, and the end-of-day sales begin in the early afternoon, although timing really does vary from one market to the other so I recommend doing your homework, and checking the schedules published by the city hall of the local district.

Of all of them, the organic Marché de Raspail is probably my favorite. It is held on Sunday mornings from 9:00 am to 1:30 pm on the center divider along Boulevard Raspail, between Rue de Rennes and Rue du Cherche Midi (stop off at the Sèvres Babylone metro station).

The Sunday Marché de Raspail caters only to organic ('biologique' or 'bio') food, and many of its products are just a cut above the rest. Indeed, French fresh produce are renowned, and I must say that every time I come back to Paris, I'm quite baffled to find that I actually forgot what a real cucumber tastes like...

The market's stalls number about 100 and are spread out over 200 yards, and they are run by anybody and everybody – from organic producers to various resellers, and some pretty interesting characters!

They sell just about anything that's organic. I walked away smugly with some very rustic lavender honey, loads of cheese and a delicious organic chicken that was roasted before my very eyes...

The service is usually very friendly. You will appreciate the way French vendors actually bother to ask when you actually plan to eat their produce. They can select it for you accordingly (i.e. so that it ripens neither too early, nor too late).

All in all, a healthy treasure trove, well worth getting up early for on a Sunday morning – even if only for an education in what fresh fruits and veggies are actually supposed to taste like...

The Raspail non-organic market runs on Tuesdays and Fridays, between 7:00 am and 2:30 pm.

Once again, the Marché Raspail can be found in the 6th quarter, on the corner of Boulevard Raspail and Rue de Rennes. Closest metro station: Sèvres Babylone.

About the Author:
Phil Chavanne shares lots of useful advices and travel information on Paris with the help of his Paris experts team. Click here to find about French food and Paris hotels now.

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