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MADRID
Convent of the Royal Barefoot Sisters
While Barefoot Nuns might sound like a movie title, Madrid's Monasterio de las
Descalzas Reales is both a functioning convent and a treasure trove of art.
The buildings themselves are outstanding examples of Renaissance architecture.
The orange stone facade is elegant, graced by several archways and magnificent
doors.
Founded by the daughter of Charles V in 1559 as a retreat for
noblewomen, the nunnery has maintained its commitment to its Franciscan
principles for centuries. Tours of the grounds and the artifacts housed there
have only recently been allowed in the last few decades.
Once a royal palace where women of the Spanish aristocracy wandered
quiet hallways, shoeless no doubt, in meditation and prayer, the convent
became not only an environment for religious contemplation but also a private
art museum. The collection grew gradually as one by one, the noblewomen who
wished to enter the religious life of the Franciscan order each brought with
them a 'dowry' offered as a prospective bride of Christ.
For centuries the convent, the art collection and the private grounds
were restricted and closed to outsiders. Today those art treasures are
accessible to visitors. The Barefoot nuns opened their domain to the public in
1960 and began conducting guided tours, which is the only way you are
permitted to see the collection.
The treasures include paintings by Titian, Zurbarán and Brueghel the
Elder, along with many others. There are magnificent hand woven tapestries
based on drawings by Rubens. There is even a marble mausoleum crafted by
Leoni, a sculpted sepulchre of Emperatriz María by Crescenci, and several Mena
sculptures.
Though the tour guides speak Spanish, questions in English are permitted
and will be answered in English. Regardless of your bi-lingual abilities,
there is much to be fascinated and delighted by at the Monasterio de las
Descalzas Reales.
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