By Jill Rivers
White beaches, native flax, red flowering Pohutakawa trees, bush, birds,
olives, artists, wines … The first time I visited Waiheke, I was still talking
about it the next day. “I’ve fallen in love, “ I gushed to a couple of
Americans who offered to share their taxi in the queue exiting the Pacific
Islanders Pasfika Festival in Auckland. “So did we – a year ago,” they
responded,” And we bought a place there!”
That’s the effect Waiheke – the Maori name for Cascading Waters, has on
you – love at first sight, commitment for life.
Greenwich Village artist Gabrielle Lewenz, is another visitor from the
United States to answer the Waiheke call. That was 9 years ago. Her
hacienda-style studio and home can be visited by appointment. You can stay
overnight in one of the inviting white décor bedrooms in the orange-mudbrick,
sunny Spanish mission-style mansion with its gothic cross design, in its
perfect position in Church Bay, overlooking the sea. (ArtStay)
Waiheke Island is a commuter’s Paradise - just 35 minutes across the
harbour from Auckland. At 92 square kms, it is one of the biggest of the 200
islands in the Hauraki Gulf. The landscape was originally covered with forest
and Maori fortified villages (Pa). Today it is a picturesque blend of hilly
farmland, forest, private beaches and boutique businesses, vineyards, olive
groves and friendly people – 7,500 of them, who live there permanently. The
Maori history of the island has left traces of archeological sites scattered
over the hills and headlands.
Our group of mainly Asian writers was so besotted with the first beach
stop at Oneroa that they had to be prised away from photographing an obliging
lone artist and easel.
Stonybridge Winery is one of the several small wineries producing small
quantities of Bordeaux-style quality red wines in an organic vineyard –
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, crushed with a Basket press, plus
the lesser-know variety of Petit Vardot. They also produce a Sauvignon Blanc,
which is very popular in the United Kingdom. The unique climate and Manganese
red coloured soil produce consistently excellent wines across the island.
You can linger longer here with the flavours of the Stonybridge Fallen
Angel hanging in your mouth, under the slogan, “Heaven-sent wines for the
Angels amongst us.” You can stay for lunch at the restaurant in the
ivy-covered winery with its wine barrels and magnolia tree at the front door.
Or tear yourself away, on to other wineries – Te Whau, with its
360-degree views, stunning architecture and award winning winelist (Wine
Spectator ... Wine International, London 2004). Or Mudbrick Winery, for lunch
at the restaurant overlooking the vineyard, bush and Auckland city over the
water. Seafood, fresh meat, fish and other locally-grown produce feature in
dishes such as Mudbrick Seafood bisque – with Wasabi, aparagus... a mango mint
salsa, Manuka (native bush) honey ... gin- cured venison carpaccio, Pan-seared
Hapuka (New Zealand fish), New Zealand Pure Black Angus Eye fillet.
The island seems to work its magic on the local art scene - Waiheke
artists and craftspeople are credited with producing some of the country's
most respected work in recent years. On alternate odd-numbered years, Waiheke
holds an a prestigious, sculpture exhibition, Sculpture on the Gulf
magnificently exhibited on the scenic Matiatia/Church Bay Walkway – now
recognized as a showcase for New Zealand’s top talent. Contemporary New
Zealand culture on the headlands where their Maori predecessors edifices used
to be.
Light, colour, peace – to bathe in Waiheke’s abundance, deserves more
than one day.
Contact Jill Rivers at jill@flyingconnoisseur.com
Flying Connoisseur was initiated by Jill Rivers, to offer
personally-selected, specialized information on food, wine & the arts - that
you are unlikely to find in guidebooks - small hotels, galleries, cafes,
restauarants, cultural pursuits and key events in the arts, food and wine
world. Specializing in Australia and New Zealand.