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ITALY
Tuscan History and Heritage
As you wind your way through Tuscany you will discover some of the most ancient and unique of Italy's historic sites. Eleven centuries before Christ, Tuscany was the civilization of the Etruscan people, a progressive civilization which flourished for eight hundred years. Their realm was known as Etruria, and they were a cultured society which valued democracy, art, and an appreciation of beauty in all things. Like so many others of their era, the Etruscan rulers were overthrown by the Roman Empire in three hundred BC.
Today, there are ten Tuscan provinces:
Arezzo, Firenze, Pisa, Siena, Lucca, Pistoia, Livorno, Prato, Grosseto, and
Massa Carrara. Tuscany’s capital is Florence. Famous for its wines, olive oil,
white marble quarries and sunflowers, Tuscany also has more forest than any
other region in Italy, and enjoys a thriving economy supported by a wide variety of
industries… among them agriculture, iron mining, ship building, textiles,
computer technology and of course, tourism.
Tuscan cities offer a smorgasbord of art treasures and archeological wonders. In the Tuscan countryside, walled villages and vineyards share space with medieval castles and small farms.
Prepare to be enchanted.
If you are planning a vacation in the Chianti region, you will have three hundred square kilometers of
glorious rolling landscapes, dotted with charming vineyards and historic hill
towns to explore. Chianti runs from Florence in northern Tuscany, to Siena in the south.
Greve, Radda and Castellina, three of Chianti’s principal towns, form a triangle in the very heart of the region. Unless you're in a hurry (and why would you be?) forget the autostrada
and take the classic route through the Chianti Wine Country via the
'Chiantigiana', State Road 222, which winds through seventy kilometers of
picturesque hills and valleys.
Greve in Chianti
Named for the nearby River Greve, a tributary of the Arno, Greve in Chianti is the chief town of the Gallo Nero region.
Greve came into its own as a center of commerce in the fourteenth and
fifteenth centuries, and is now famous as the site of Chianti's largest wine
fair, held every September. The heart of this market town is the Piazza
Matteotti, an unusual triangular piazza lined with porticoes. Visit on Saturday if your
sight-seeing schedule permits, as Saturday is market day.
In the Piazza Matteotti stands a statue of Giovanni da
Verrazzano. Born in Greve in 1485, Verrazzano was the first European explorer to enter New York Bay in 1524, and in acknowledgement, the bridge across New York harbor today bears his name. Coincidentally, Amerigo Vespucci, that other intrepid mariner after whom the whole of the Americas is named, was born in nearby Montefioralle.
Castellina in Chianti
In the thirteenth century, Castellina in Chianti was
a member of the military alliance within the state of Florence,
and as such, was a much fortified and much defended territory during the
ensuing wars between Florence and Siena over a period which spanned three centuries. As you explore you will find remnants of the fortified walls, overlooked by the medieval keep which affords wonderful
views, as does the Via delle Volte which is a covered sentry walk that was once
part of the town fortifications. These days the old fort in the central square
has become municipial offices.
Radda in Chianti
Located in the forested and vineyard-covered hills of
Chianti, Radda in Chianti was once the seat of the medieval Lega di
Chianti, the military alliance under Florentine rule. Like Castellina, Radda
has preserved the remains of its ancient walls. You will find the Piazza
Ferrucci at the center of town, surrounded by winding alleyways and
charming little squares. Look for the Palazzo Pretorio, a fifteenth
century palace whose facade is adorned with the crests and coats of arms of
the town luminaries. Just outside Radda is the historic priory of Pieve di Santa
Maria Novella which contains several interesting works of art.
San Gimignano might be the most famous and most visited small town in Italy.
Immaculately preserved, surrounded by story book landscapes, it is immediately
recognizable from all quarters. No other Tuscan hill town evokes medieval Italy
so thoroughly.
In the 10th century, San Gimignano was named for the Holy
Bishop of Modena, St. Gimignano, who had a hand in saving the village from barbarian attack.
The town grew and became wealthy in the middle ages, situated as it was at the
intersection of the trade route to Pisa and the pilgrim road to Rome.
As San Gimignano flourished, its leaders gave generously to public works
projects. They commissioned works of art, erected churches, designed new
piazzas and fountains.
With wealth came power, and with power comes divisiveness
and factions. In this instance the Ardinghelli family, who were Guelphs,
squared off against the Salvucci family who were Ghibellines. The feud gave
rise to San Gimignano’s famed skyline… they built towers, ever grander, and
ever higher. The towers represented their respective prestige and influence…
the higher the tower, the further up the pecking order one sat.
Only fifteen of the original seventy-two towers survive but that still makes for impressive
architecture. San Gimignano is a World Heritage Site and well worth a visit,
but try to go out of season as the summer crowds can detract from your
experience.
Be sure your San Gimignano sight-seeing includes…
The Duomo, or cathedral,
with its wonderful biblical frescoes depicting old and new testaments, and its
Last Judgment, plus St. Fina's Chapel. The Museo d'Arte Sacra,
located in the cloister of the cathedral, houses a host of holy treasures and
a variety of Etruscan pots and urns excavated from the surrounding
countryside.
The Palazzo del Popolo built at the end of the thirteenth century, is San Gimignano’s art gallery. You’ll see 12th century crucifixes, several Gothic altarpieces, including one
showing scenes from the life of Saint Gimignano, the Madonna with Saints
Gregory and Benedict by Pinturicchio, and some amusing frescoes of family
life, with a couple taking a bath in a tub and going to bed.
The Museo Comunale also
has the Torre Grande, which takes some effort to climb but offers a stunning
view.
Cortona
Perched on a steep hillside in the province of Arezzo with lovely views of Tuscan landscapes which include Lake Trasimeno, Cortona was one of the twelve cities of Etruria and is therefore one of the
oldest cities in Italy. Dating back 3000 years, much of Cortona’s Etruscan wall survives at the base
of the Roman and medieval walls which were later built onto it, and in the
surrounding countryside many Etruscan ruins and ancient tombs have been found.
Take a day trip to the quintessential Tuscan hill town where red tiled rooftops cluster tightly on Cortona’s hillsides, every bit as vividly in life as they did under the fictional Tuscan sun. Beneath them weave steep, winding lanes and narrow alleys, charming piazzas studded with the lively bars and cafes which are Cortona's hotspots today. At Cortona's heart, the central Piazza della Repubblica, is grandly flanked by
the 13th century Palazzo Comunale, the Town Hall. The nearby Piazza
Signorelli is home to the theatre and the Museo dell'Accademia Etrusca
where you can view many local artifacts from Cortona’s long, historic past.
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The Accademia Etrusca was founded in 1727 by the three Venuti brothers. In 1728 an uncle bequeathed them his collection of
statues, urns, pateras, gems, lanterns, and votives, in addition to rare books
and antique manuscripts which he had accumulated during a lifetime of
scholarly pursuits. The Accademia Etrusca’s prize exhibit is a bronze
chandelier dating to the 5th century BC. The museum is housed in the
13th-century Palazzo Casali, originally given over for the
collection of artifacts by the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Giangastone dei Medici.
The collections have grown over the centuries and are now divided into three
sections: The Archeological Collection; The Egyptian Collection; and The
Medieval and Modern Collection. From the Accademia head for the Piazza del Duomo,
home of Cortona’s Cathedral and site of yet another panoramic vista from the
town walls.
Part of the facade of the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta dates from the 10th-11th centuries, and the church is thought to be built on the site of an Etruscan temple. Late fourteenth century work on the church is attributed to Giuliano da Sangallo, and upon completion the Santa Maria
Assunta was declared the cathedral of the diocese, displacing the church of
San Vincenzo which was the first bishopric in Cortona, built in the 800's.
Visit Etruscan Italy
Most tourists know about Pisa's famed landmark, but there's a lot more to Pisa than her leaning tower.
Pisa was founded by the ancient Greeks. Undoubtedly because
of her former proximity to the sea and easy access of the Arno river delta, the
city became an important trading port, and later, one of the leading lights of
Etruscan civilization. Pisa remained an important hub during Roman times. The
famed white marble quarries of Carrara are nearby in the foothills of the Alpi
Apuane, and timber for ship building was plentiful in the forests of the long
fertile plain along the Arno delta. By the ninth century Pisa was a great
naval and military power on par with Genoa and Venice, and by the twelfth
and thirteenth centuries her territories included the islands of Corsica and
Sardinia. The rivalries were ever thick between the great Maritime city-states and in
1284 the great naval battle of Meloria was fought between Pisan and Genoan
galleys. It was a decisive defeat for Pisa. Half the fleet was destroyed, five
thousand killed, according to some accounts, and twice that number taken
captive back to Genoa. So began Pisa's decline. The fine harbor silted up and
in 1406 Pisa came under Florentine rule.
The university of Pisa was and is still one
of Europe's most famous institutions of higher learning. Founded in 1338, it
has faculties in law, medicine, mathematics, philosophy and literature. From
1589 Galileo, who had been born in Pisa, held the mathematics chair for three
years.
The historical heart of Pisa lies within old city walls and is known as the
Campo dei Miracoli or Field of Miracles.
It consists of a beautiful Romanesque Basilca, an even more ornate Baptistry,
the basilca's Campanile... the famous leaning tower, and the Camposanto...
sacred field, which is a walled cemetery with a huge gothic cloister. The
whole is surrounded by a beautifully laid out park area and is a UNESCO world
heritage site. If you would like to see some of the charming hotel accommodations available in Pisa visit Hotels Pisa - Tuscany .Net
The Duomo Santa Maria is the cathedral
which was begun in the eleventh century and has many Byzantine and Muslim
influences. Inside, a marvelous mosaic interior covers the apse which was
completed by Cimabue in 1302.
The circular Baptistry, begun in the twelfth
century, is the largest baptistry in Italy and is dedicated to John the
Baptist.
The city of Lucca is one of the most charming spots to spend time on your Tuscan vacation. Founded by the Etruscans, Lucca became a Roman colony in 180 BC. The historical city centre lies within beautifully preserved red brick Renaissance walls which were erected in the16th and 17th centuries when Lucca
was an independent region and vulnerable to attack from the city-state of Florence.
The walls remain intact today as they were seldom put to the test, and they now afford the visitor a unique sight-seeing experience as you can stroll or bike the four kilometers along the ramparts for a birds eye view of the old town on one side, and olive groves and vineyards climbing up into the
hills on the other.
Lucca's Cathedral, dedicated to San Martino, dates from the
eleventh century, with the interior rebuilt during the fourteenth and
fifteenth centuries. There are reliefs carved over one of the doorways
believed to be the work of Nicola Pisano.
The pulpit and the tomb of Ilaria are by Lucca's native son, Matteo
Civitali, as is the tempietto which contains the Volto Santo, a
wooden carving of Christ on the Cross, said to be the true likeness, as it was
carved by Nicodemus who was present at the crucifixion. It is a very holy
object and every year on September 13th, is removed to lead a procession
through the streets of Lucca.
Possibly the most photographed church in Lucca, the upper facade of Chiesa
di San Michele in Foro is like a Hollywood set... a front with no back. It
was under construction for three hundred years, and apparently the funds ran
out before the upper level was completed. It is still a beautiful church, a
stunning example of Romanesque architecture with its elaborately carved
columns, striped and spiralled... each one different from the next. Topping
the whole edifice is Archangel Michael slaying a dragon... the wings are
hinged and may be retracted in a high wind.
Casa di Puccini
On Via di Poggio, not far from the Chiesa di San Michele where he would later sing in the choir, composer Giacomo Puccini was born on December 22nd,1858, his parents' sixth child. The modest house is now a small museum full of Puccini memorabilia... portraits, scores, even a Steinway piano at which Lucca's most famous son learned his craft. Though at first some of Puccini's operas were less than well received, his public eventually caught up with him and he was fortunate enough to enjoy the rewards of his great success during his lifetime.
Puccini left us a brilliant body of work which has remained at the forefront of international opera repertory ever since. He built a villa eighteen kilometers from his hometown, at Torre del Lago on the shores of Lake Massaciuccoli. The villa is now the site of another Puccini museum and an
outdoor Puccini Festival which every year attracts 40,000 people to hear the maestro's beloved operas... Tosca, Madama Butterfly, Turandot, and many more, as he only dreamed of hearing them, in the open air. Puccini's remains lie in a small chapel inside the villa.
Opera lovers can indulge their passion for great music right along with their passion for a fun-in-the-sun beach vacation. A short distance from Torre del Lago is the seaside town of Viareggio, on a stretch of coastline known as the Tuscan Riviera.
One of the earliest popular resorts in Europe, it lies on a coastal strip of over twenty kilometers of beaches with nearby nature parks, lakes, woodlands and scenic countryside. In February, Viareggio hosts a famous Carnevale parade, while the nearby town of Forte dei Marmi is the local hotspot for chic boutiques and trendy cafes and restaurants.
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