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TRAVEL DESTINATIONS >> SPAIN
Travel Guide Seville

© photographer Nick Stubbs; agency Dreamstime.com
Plaza de España

History & Heritage
The regional capital of Andalucia with a population of 700,000, Seville is the fourth largest city in Spain. Today, the keeper of the flame of Andalucian spirit and tradition, Seville has had a long and illustrious past, and the city boasts a plethora of historical sites to evidence the fact. Phoenicians and Carthagianians settled in this spot, and later the Romans. Julius Ceasar is credited with the founding of Seville, naming it Iulia Romula Hispanis. It was once the site of a Roman acropolis, and Emperors Trajan and Hadrian were born in the Roman city of Italica, just outside of Seville. Seville's museums now contain most of the important archeological treasures excavated from Italica. Much later Seville became the capital of the Moorish empire. Located on the plain of the Guadalquivir river, Seville has been called the most dramatic, as well as the most charming and romantic of Spain's great cities.

Seville in Literature
The charms of Seville appear again and again in art and literature, as either the inspiration or setting for famous works. Legendary ladies man Don Juan set out from Seville to pursue his conquests. Prosper Merimée's Carmen, who later became Bizet's Carmen, worked in Seville's Tobacco factory and met her untimely end at the hands of Don Jose outside Seville's magnificent bullring. And who can forget Figaro, the city's most mischievous barber? Miguel de Cervantes, was well acquainted with Seville, creating his most memorable character, the heroic knight Don Quixote de la Mancha, during his sojourn in Seville's Royal Prison.

 
Best Sights
Depending on who you ask, Seville's breath-taking Cathedral Santa Maria de la Sede is either the largest gothic building in the world, or the third largest cathedral, out-ranked only by St. Peter's in Rome and St.Paul's in London. Built on the site of a mosque demolished by the reconquistas in 1401, the cathedral took 120 years to complete, and is listed in the Guiness Book of World Records for its size. Christopher Columbus is buried here. You can climb the 90 meters from inside the cathedral to the top of the Giralda, or bell tower, worth the effort if you're up for the exercise, for its spectacular views of Seville. The Giralda was originally a minaret from whence the muezzins of old called the faithful to prayer serveral times a day. It dates from 1198 and the cathedral which came much later, was built to incorporate it as a bell tower.
 

© photo Alexandre Fagundes; agency Dreamstime.com

Alcazar
Next to the Cathedral is the Alcázar... another palace-fortress who's original structure dates from the Moorish rulers in the 700's, but which underwent extensive re-building in the 15th century for Christian King Pedro 1, also known as Pedro The Avenger and Pedro The Cruel. It is a beautiful example of Mudejar style architecture although the decor includes images of kings, birds and animals, motifs that would not be found in an authentic Moorish structure. The palace is still in use as a royal residence whenever the King and Queen of Spain are in Seville.

The golden domed Salon de los Embajadores is reported to be the the great hall where Isabel and Fernando greeted Columbus upon his return from the Americas. You will find the Alcazar's original central building flanked by a sixteenth century wing known as the Admiral's Apartments added later by Queen Isabel, and a thirteenth century Gothic Palace built by Carlos V. The magnificent Alcázar Gardens surround the palaces on all sides.

What was once Seville's old Jewish Quarter and later a ghetto, home to the second largest Jewish population in fourteenth century Spain, is now the enchanting neighborhood of Santa Cruz where you can stroll the narrow lanes between white-washed houses with their walled gardens trailing bougainvillea. Here and there you may glimpse picturesque courtyards and tiled patios, hidden behind filigreed iron grill-work which still evokes the city's Moorish and Jewish legacies.
 

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Map kindly provided by Map of Spain  
 



Fiestas & Ferias
Semana Santa, or Holy Week, is celebrated all over Spain, but nowhere with more passion and devotion than in Seville. With its processions and parties, the week long spectacle focusing on the spiritual heart of catholicism, Christ's crucifixion and the adoration of the Virgin Mary, has been likened variously to Mardi Gras in New Orleans, Siena's great re-enactment of Renaissance pagentry, the Palio, and Carnivale in Rio. In every parish, teams of up to fifty men disappear under enormous and elaborately decorated floats dedicated to the Virgin, and carry them painstakingly through Seville's streets, accompanied by costumed penitents, some of whom are in chains and carrying heavy crosses. The spiritual experience for many participants is both profound and lasting as they endure grueling conditions for many hours and regard it as a grace and a privilege to do so. The many floats from all over the city finally converge on the cathedral which is so big it can accomodate them all.

Two weeks after Easter, all Seville takes to the streets once again for the Feria de Abril, an affirmation of life and celebration of Andalucian culture in which the city becomes the center of the universe for a week long block party. If you haven't spent years mastering the art of flamenco, try your hand at the impromptu folk version called Sevillanas, flamenco for the rest of us, which will be taking place in bars and on sidewalks all over the city.

Follow the tiled boardwalk to the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza, Seville's enormous eighteenth century bullring, for one of the thirteen Corridas that will be held during the week. If you are planning to attend either the Semana Santa or Feria celebrations, be sure and book well in advance as the city will be jam packed and completely sold out during both events.
 


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