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WESTERN EUROPE
Meet Finland's Capital City
Though Helsinki has been the capital of Finland 'only' since 1809 when the Russians first took dominion of the city from Sweden, this city was originally founded in 1550.
One of the great cities of the world, Helsinki is a fascinating mixture of historical and ultra-modern. Like much of Scandinavian culture today, Helsinki has a progressive emphasis on high-tech. It happily embraces the best that modern science has to offer. At the same time, it retains many of the outstanding historical buildings and sights that provide this unique city with its unique ambiance.
Helsinki's National Museum provides an excellent overview of that mix, which the Finns have perfected. The Helsinki Zoo shows how both the natural and the artificial can be perfectly blended together. And the Nuuksio National Park, opened in 1994, shows how nature preservation can work hand in hand with a thriving tourism industry to provide one of the best forested lake areas in the world.
The old and new theme is continued with many of Helsinki's other first rate attractions.
The Suomenlinna Island fortresses give a great view of Helsinki's past as a military outpost for both Sweden and Russia. This series of interconnected islands provides a great picnic area while giving visitors a delightful look at some of the battered battlements of Finland's glorious past.
But Helsinki's present is superb, as well. Both Market Square and the Esplanade give shoppers and diners everything they could wish for. Whether it's fresh berries and coffee in the morning, or an outstanding dinner at the world-class Kappeli, you'll never walk away unsatisfied. Market Square (Kauppatori) has been offering fresh fish for over 200 years and Kappeli has been serving the finest cuisine since 1837. Both are favorites with locals and visitors alike.
Another view of Helsinki's 19th century roots can be seen in The Lutheran Cathedral known locally as Tuomiokirkko. This neo-classical building is a superlative example of the architecture that makes Senate Square one of the city's biggest attractions.
Another major religious building in Helsinki, the Uspenski Cathedral, provides a decidedly different, but equally praiseworthy, place to go in Finland's capital. With its distinctive red-brick facade, this onion-domed Orthodox church is a must-see when visiting the city.
Outside Helsinki are other attractions like the medieval village of Porvoo, a 30-minute bus ride to the suburbs, will take you back to a period before the city was even founded. This four-hour tour of small houses and churches from the Middle Ages is one of the most popular destinations in this northern metropolis.
But don't leave Helsinki without spending at least a little time walking around the Linnanmäki Amusement Park. Though 'only' 57 years old, it provides plenty of nostalgia for those who miss the 'good old days' of bumper cars and wooden roller coasters.
The Esplanade
Esplanadi Boulevard or Esplanade Park near the center of town is a tourist delight.
A hundred years ago, and for the hundred years before that, Finland struggled for identity. Long a province of Sweden, then later of Russia, with Lapland in the north, it is a land of many cultures. Nowhere is that better reflected than in this historic section of Helsinki.
On the north side of the main avenue (Pohjoisesplanadi) walked those who advocated retaining Finland's Swedish roots as a guide. Those who argued for breaking away toward the future separated themselves onto the south side Etelaesplanadi.
Today, the conflicts are long forgotten but for the occasional reminders one can see in sculpture, shops and restaurants of the area.
Planned in the early 19th century, many of those shops, restaurants, architecture and parks, date from that period. Whether you're interested in luxury shopping or just some people watching, this is the place to go.
During Helsinki's pleasant summer, visitors can enjoy outdoor concerts in the park at the bandstand. Check out the Fish Boys and Water Nymphs fountains and sculpture. In winter, you can shop for a fur coat. At any time of year you'll see lovely buildings and streets crowded with activity.
Stretching from Kauppatori westwards to Mannerheimintie Street, a walk down this boulevard might remind you of some of Europe's more famous grand avenues. Running from the harbor all the way to the Swedish Theatre, this gravel-lined street is festooned with trees, foliage and flowers.
From Finland's most expensive and luxurious hotel, the Kämp Hotel, to the free-to-all view of the statue of J.L. Runeberg (1804-1877), Finland's national poet, this is the place to be. Check out Stockman's, Scandinavia's largest department store. Don't miss the Moomin Shop. Even if you don't buy anything the goods and architecture make the stroll well worth the effort.
Porvoo
Helsinki has been the capital of Finland for about 200 years. Yet, Finland is an ancient land. Some of that history is well-captured in Porvoo, about 30 minutes outside the city.
Though largely destroyed by fire in 1760, the town has been restored to resemble its original look from the Middle Ages. There's a spectacular medieval church and an impressive town hall that looks original. As is the case with many towns of the period, entrance is via a large wooden bridge that provides an outstanding view of the town.
Along the four hour tour that takes you around to the various sights, you'll see numerous examples of houses from the era. Guides will point out the red warehouses that stored goods, much of it hard-won from the sea in the days when fishing was the most common way to survive in the area. The red color dates from the 18th century when the owners painted the buildings to honor King Gustav III of Sweden.
The tour includes a walk through the museum that was once home to Finland's former national poet, J.L. Runeberg. Not far away is the studio where his equally famous sculptor son worked.
Then you'll have a chance to see the medieval cathedral that formed the centerpiece of cultural life during the time of monks and madness known as the 13th century. The granite structure was bombed during WWII but came through without major damage. The interior houses a model of a tall wooden ship that is alone worth the trip.
Outside, you'll be able to explore the belfry that, unlike similar structures elsewhere, isn't attached to the main building. Arrangements can even be made to get married in the cathedral, though you'll have to plan a couple of years in advance, at least.
Just outside is a road that led from St. Petersburg, Russia to Stockholm, Sweden. Set atop a hill, some of the best views are available from this spot.
The Old Town Hall was inaugurated in 1764 and makes for another wonderful sight in this delightful tourist attraction. The Baroque building sports a clock tower that will fascinate anyone interested in architecture of the period. Inside is the main museum containing displays about the town's history.
Part of that history tells of when Tsar Alexander convened the Diet of Porvoo in 1809. A 'Diet' is a ruling council. It was at this historical meeting that the Russian ruler outlined his plans for the Grand Duchy of Finland, recently come into his domain.
The Porvoo Bridge near Jokikatu Street is at the northern end of town. From here, visitors can get an excellent look at the riverbank and the Old Quarter section of town. Alongside are tethered numerous wooden boats that complete the picturesque scene. Cruises are available during the summer that float lazily along the river, day or night.
Part of the tour takes in the studio of Albert Edelfelt, one of Finland's most well-known painters of the 19th century. Born in Kiiala Manor in Porvoo itself, he is perhaps best known for his portrait of Louis Pasteur, the great microbiologist. His studio, dating from 1883, provides a stellar look at the range of architecture that forms this unusual town.
Come see an authentic medieval village near one of the world's most modern cities.
Helsinki Zoo
Far from the largest, even in northern Europe, Helsinki Zoo is nevertheless a must-not-miss sight for tourists. The setting alone is worth a visit. Helsinki Zoo is located on Korkeasaari, a small round island, one of over a hundred that dot the landscape in and around Finland.
Easily reached by boat, it is a pleasant 30 minute ride from Helsinki harbor in Kruunuvuori bay. Once you arrive, you'll be treated to over 200 animal species with over 1,000 plant species. Though small by comparison to the great zoos, the collection offers a fascinating look at creatures all the way from the frozen Artic to the sweltering tropics.
In the Amazon and Africa section there are dozens of interesting snakes and spiders that will delight kids young and old. For those who are a bit squeamish, bypass the scary animals and head for the frogs, lizards and turtles. These animals are relatively unchanged from their ancestors millions of years ago and make for fascinating study. Helsinki Zoo has plenty of parrots to amuse visitors and the monkeys will imitate the parrots imitating the humans.
There are zebra and elk galore, with deer and baboons, too. The baboons even have their own castle. Try to spot which one is king. Baboons have a very rigid and violently maintained hierarchy and the leader is called the 'king'. Not far away are chamois, ibex and musk ox.
Beware the wolverines. Don't try to feed them. Normally docile, they can be fierce when frightened. Don't miss seeing the lemmings, who get scared for no reason. Though don't expect them to jump off a cliff. That's a myth! The small, Przewalski's wild horses are always a favorite of visitors.
For examples from the frigid north the Zoo offers a look at Polar Foxes, Snowy Owls and Forest Reindeer from Lapland, along with a great looking Snow Leopard. Many of the animals are active winter and summer and the zoo provides a great view all year 'round.
Wander through Borealia and see first hand what a real Northern Coniferous Forest looks like. Check out the rare ducks and the many interesting plant and tree species. To see some of the endangered species protected at the zoo just follow the Rhino signs.
The zoo has other great attractions like the huge, modern looking wooden observation tower. Ten meters high (33 feet), it was built as an engineering exercise. Its shape is something like a distorted hatbox made of wooden ribs. From the top you can get a great view of the zoo grounds and the surrounding sea.
The Island Fortresses of Suomenlinna
Suomen is derived from the Finnish word for the people of Finland. In Swedish, they're known as Finns. Yet, ironically, the island fortress off the coast was founded by Swedes, but carries the Finnish name. Confused?
In the mid-18th century, Finland was still part of the Swedish kingdom, as it had been for 600 years. In 1747, the Diet (ruling council) in Stockholm decided to erect a fortress on one island to serve as a staging area for military forces in the region. The goal was to have a local presence to stave off the Russians, who were already making threatening gestures. The fortress, called Sveaborg ('fortress of Sweden') was completed some dozen years later.
Rule passed to Russia in 1809 when Finland became a Grand Duchy after Sweden ceded the territory. A deal brokered by Napoleon between Tsar Alexander and King Gustav. Then, shortly after the Bolshevik revolution in 1917, Finland became a truly independent country and the fortress' name was changed to Suomenlinna ('Castle of Finland').
But whatever the name signifies, the islands that hold several related structures - just a short ferry ride from Kauppatori (Market Square) - are a tourist delight.
Actually covering different islands, the central fortifications reside on one (Kustaanmiekka) that is the main attraction. As you would expect, you'll see crumbling stone walls and battlements. What will surprise you is just how well maintained the area is, thanks to the locals.
There is evidence everywhere of the action seen by the fortress. During the Crimean War (1854-1856) the walls were shelled by French and British naval vessels beginning on August 9th 1855. For two days the Russian and Finnish inhabitants endured the pounding of the allied guns. Though extensive rebuilding was undertaken, there are many walls, earthworks and other sections that still show signs of that first 'modern' war.
But tourists will find today a beautiful sea view, grasses dotted with colorful flowers and a number of interesting museums to explore.
About a thousand people actually live on the islands, among whom are those who care for (among other things) the Finnish submarine Vesikko. The Naval Academy of Finland is housed on one of the islands. There's even a prison, though it's not available for viewing by the general public.
There are buildings that serve as artist's studios, with many interesting works on display. During the summer theatrical performances delight both residents and tourists alike.
On Sarkka there are additional fortifications and a fine restaurant. Another provides an interesting church with a lighthouse in the steeple and a cannon and chain for fencing. And don't miss the famed Kings Gate that appears on the old Finnish 1000 Finn mark banknote. (The Finnish Mark was replaced by the Euro in 2002).
Open year 'round, a few of the islands are connected by sandbars and bridges and one can walk from one to the next. One can explore the tunnels, then have a bite to eat in one of the many coffee shops or restaurants. Check out the pizzeria on the tip of Kustaanmiekka built into the casement vaults. Or, eat do-it-yourself style. In the summer, the islands make for a particularly fine spot to have a picnic.
Uspenski Cathedral
One of Helsinki's most notable landmarks, the Uspenski Cathedral should be on everyone's list of things to see in Finland's capital. Completed in 1868, it is reportedly the largest Orthodox Church in Western Europe. Though Finland may not exactly qualify as 'west'. But whatever the status of that record, the church is a spectacular sight.
Set atop a hill the site makes for an amazing sight from far away, that just becomes more impressive the closer one gets. From as far away as the city's active marketplace it's possible to see the huge structure.
Thanks to a very open space surrounding it, one can get a panoramic view of the entire building from fifty meters away, then enjoy a close up view walking up the hill. Turning around, one can get a great view of the city below.
The cathedral is a functioning religious center and the center of the Finnish Orthodox Church, numbering about 60,000 members. It is the seat of the Archdiocese of Helsinki, which has administrative ties to the Patriarchate in Constantinople.
But anyone, no matter their beliefs, can enjoy the splendor that is this magnificent structure in Helsinki. The deep red walls form a superb base for the green and gold domes.
Built in the Russian-Byzantine style, it was modeled after a 16th century church near Moscow. The cathedral is covered in red brick and provides an outstanding look into Finland's past. The bricks were brought from a fortress destroyed during the Crimean War, Bomarsund Fortress in Aland.
Its huge central dome is supported atop four enormous granite pillars. Many others (technically 'cupolas') - in the familiar onion-shaped style common to Russian Orthodox churches - surround it. Thirteen in all, they are symbolic of Jesus and the Apostles.
Beneath the domes are a series of superbly shaped and adorned arches and Byzantine-style crosses. In the interior can be seen the large iconostasis, a wall of religious paintings and icons, executed by Russian artists. On the southern side there is a three-story belltower that gives the one at Notre Dame in Paris some good competition.
Around the interior, as is common in many 19th century or older religious buildings, there are icons galore. But, less common, Uspenski Cathedral has a display of chandeliers hanging from the vaulted ceiling that would be the envy of kings and queens.
Kauppatori
At Market Square, known locally in Helsinki as Kauppatori, visitors and natives alike can get everything from fresh salmon steak to reindeer meat. But there's much more than just great food.
The Market Square is located on the shoreline and offers great views, great food and outstanding atmosphere. The bright orange cloth-covered stalls are a pick-me-up in winter and an even greater delight under Helsinki's gentle summer sun.
On one side of the bay is the South Harbor, the other faces Katajanokka headland. Turn around and there's the Swedish Embassy and, to the left, the Presidential Palace. You can catch a ferry to the excellent Helsinki Zoo on Korkeasaari island. Or, you can stroll through the surrounding neighborhood to the indoor Hietalahden Tori marketplace.
Tourists here may go for the Russian fur hats or the reindeer skin, but locals may just as likely be after nothing more than a stylish wooden bowl. Someone on her way to work may be stopping in for a quick bunch of the superb fresh berries on sale.
Whatever your taste, literally, there's something for everyone at Kauppatori. You can find a Lapp hunting knive that will closely resemble one a shopper might have seen a hundred years ago. Or, you may just want an inexpensive but tasty lunch of reindeer salami or a little coffee and breakfast munkki, a type of Finnish doughnut.
While you have your food you can take in a view of many of Helsinki's finest historical buildings and do a little people watching. Everyone comes to Kauppatori! At some times of the day, you'll be overwhelmed with the hustle of the modern city which is Finland's capital.
Since the 18th century, visitors and locals both have enjoyed the sea air and the fine food. They traded goods and swapped stories. Near the obelisk (Keisarinnan kivi) commemorating the Russian Empress Alexandra's visit in 1833 you can easily imagine the scene during that time.
Only a few meters away you can take a boat trip to Suomenlinna (Finland Castle), or catch a cruise to St. Petersburg or Turku. Take a walk around and see the Town Hall (Kaupungintalo) constructed in the year of the Empress' visit. Or stroll over and see the Guard House near the Presidential Palace, the first neo-classical building in the city. Along the Esplanade you can find more shops, restaurants and historical buildings than you could visit in one vacation.
Among the highlights is the Kappeli restaurant, serving the finest food in Helsinki since 1837. But don't miss seeing the superb Havis Amanda fountain, or the old Market Hall (Wanha Kauppahalli, built in 1888) on the seaward side of the Eteläranta either. Not far away is Senate Square with many other stellar sights.
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