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WESTERN EUROPE
Portugal's Premier City
Visitors to Lisbon will find warm sunshine and warmer people. No travel guide is required to know that. The reputation of the city's residents is too well known. But what tourists may not know is that this city on Europe's west coast is also home to more things to see and do than could possibly be accomplished in one vacation.
The city is divided into several districts each with its own set of highlights. But no matter where you go, you'll find attractions galore.
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The Gulbenkian Museum is one of the most popular, and it isn't hard to see why. It's filled with some of the finest art anywhere in the world. It may be less well known than the Musée D'Orsay in Paris, but it's just as deserving of praise. Whether your taste runs to Egyptian masks or Japanese screens, or the best Rembrandt portraits, there's something here to please.
The Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (Museum of Ancient Art) is equally worth a visit. Popularly known as the MNAA, it offers a wide selection of sculpture, drawings and more from the Middle Ages to the early 19th century.
Looking for something a little more lively? Head out to one of the many delightful fado clubs. Be serenaded with a soulful tune and enjoy a fine meal. You may happen to be in the old Moorish Alfama neighborhood. Or, you might be near the 16th century Bairro Alto quarter that's full of local artists. No matter where you are, you'll find a club that offers this music that has come to symbolize Lisbon.
If, after that, you manage to get up on Saturday morning head down to the Fiera da Ladra. The name means Thieves Market, but you won't get ripped off. No, indeed, you'll find so many interesting items your only real concern will be how to haul all the stuff back home.
Once you've stashed the goods at the hotel, head out to one of Lisbon's many monuments to its glorious seafaring past. This nation of ocean traveling traders boasts of heroes like Vasco da Gama, Magellan and many other well known names. Their exploits are well honored at the Discoveries Monument, in the Belem section.
While there, be sure to check out the Monastery of the Hieronymites, built in 1502. Even the religious buildings in this city echo Lisbon's maritime culture. The cloister is festooned with carved sea monsters, coiled ropes and more.
Stroll over to the nearby Belem Tower, completed in 1515 as a fortress to guard Lisbon's harbor. It is the site where many of those aforementioned explorers departed.
Lisbon has a fine zoo, as well, not far from the Jardim Botanico housing many prehistoric plants. In the adjoining facility is a natural history museum well worth a look, too.
Don't leave the city without spending some time at the famous Coach Museum. Even those who might not be interested in royal transportation from the 17th century will find their opinions being tested. It offers a look into Portugal's royal past that will impress even lovers of modern Ferraris.
Take a trip up the hill and see Saint George's Castle. One of the oldest structures in this centuries-old city, visitors will come away with a new appreciation for Portugal's architectural achievements.
That same skill can also be seen in the Lisbon Cathedral, one of the earliest buildings erected after King Alfonso Henriques expelled the Moors in 1147.
Get a view of what the Moors left behind by visiting Sintra, only a half-hour outside the city. An easy trip by bus, train or rented car, the Moorish Castle and the Palácio Nacional de Pena make the trip well worthwhile. While there, soak up some of the local nightlife at one of the internationally populated clubs.
Visit Lisbon and be prepared to leave disappointed - because you couldn't stay twice as long.
Belem, Historical District of Lisbon
Portugal has a long history of sea exploration, filled with colorful tales of discovery. This history is amply illustrated in Lisbon's Belem section. For the traveler, there are enough things to see here to occupy several vacations.
One of the most often visited sites is the Jeronimos Monastery also known as the Monastery of the Hieronymites, built in 1502. The cloisters contain many maritime themes echoing Lisbon's relationship to the sea in the form of carved sea monsters, coiled ropes and more. The exterior houses a garden with elaborately shaped bushes depicting many of Portugal's coats-of-arms.
Nearby is the equally renowned Belem Tower, completed in 1515 as a fortress to guard Lisbon's harbor. From this spot many of Portugal's great explorers began their journeys. But the tower is of more than historical significance. It's also a work of art. Festooned with sculptures, it will entrance any lover of outdoor art.
Covering the monument are carvings incorporating many of the themes of The Discoveries, the name given to Portugal's long line of exploratory firsts. Dias' trip around the Cape of Good Hope, the voyages of Magellan, Vasco da Gama's discovery of the sea route to India and more are depicted on the walls.
That theme is continued in The Discoveries Monument. It treats many of the same heroic exploits but in a fascinating modern manner. Made of huge stone rectangles, carved figures are crowded along one ramp. The effect is that of a group of heroes rushing to see what is ahead.
Erected in 1960 it represents a three-masted ship ready to set sail on an unknown ocean, armed only with courage and curiosity. Cartographers, monks and others follow Prince Henry the Navigator as they set out on their great quest to see what is beyond the horizon. The interior contains exhibit space where visitors can see a film about Lisbon, then climb to the top for a view of the spectacular surroundings.
But Belem offers other fascinating sights.
The Ajuda Palace, constructed in the early 19th century, offers tourists a look at Lisbon's royal past. The neo-classical facade provides one of the highlights of the architecture of the period. But even more impressive sights await within.
Filled with tapestries, marble statues and thousands of objet d'arts, the Ajuda Palace will occupy those who enjoy fine art for hours. The frescoed ceilings alone makes the trip worthwhile.
Take a breather in mid-afternoon and enjoy a refreshing drink or light meal at one of the many cafes in Belem. Then head out to see the Berardo Museum, the 25 de Abril Bridge and the dozens of other sights in this historical district of Lisbon.
Lisbon Cathedral
The roots of Lisbon go back centuries. As far back as the 4th century, it was a bishopric of the nascent Catholic Church. But unlike many European cities, the history of Lisbon took an odd turn. It was conquered by Muslim invaders in the 8th century, an occupation that lasted for nearly 400 years.
The result for the modern traveler is that even such a common building as a cathedral takes on a somewhat different cast in this Portuguese city. The Sé de Lisboa, the cathedral of Santa Maria Maior, is just such an example.
After the first king of Portugal, Alfonso Henriques with help from the English, drove the Moors out of Lisbon in 1147, he began an ambitious building program. One of the first was the Lisbon Cathedral, as it has come to be known.
Like most from the Medieval period, the project continued for nearly the next 300 years. As a result, the building displays many styles, as changes were made during the effort.
The facade is relatively plain, a utilitarian set of walls that appear to the visitor like a fortress. But the interior contains many splendors. The chapel in the cloister, for example, holds architectural details that will delight anyone who enjoys cathedrals. Here one can see evidence of Lisbon's Roman and Arab periods in the excavated central courtyard.
Built with the standard Latin cross plan, there are three aisles, a transept and a main chapel. The cloister is connected to the church on the east end. Standing in the center one can look up in the direction of the entrance at an impressive rose window.
As you do, you can easily observe the high barrel vaults that were the main innovation of medieval churches adapted from the Romans. The other rose windows admit the warm Lisbon sunshine to illuminate them with a gentle glow.
Walk to the ambulatory and spend some time admiring the Gothic tomb of Lopo Pacheco, an heroic knight in the service of King Alfonso IV. Beside his is that of his wife, Maria Vilalobos, who is depicted reading a Book of Hours.
Alfonso was once buried in the main chapel, but the tombs were destroyed in the famed 1755 earthquake that devastated much of Lisbon. Near the entrance is another surviving tomb, this one of a rich merchant named Bartolomeu Joanes.
Construction has continued off and on right up to the present. In the 18th century, after the earthquake, the main chapel was rebuilt in the Rococo style of the day. One evidence of this is the crib in Joanes's chapel.
While no one would claim that Lisbon Cathedral is the equal of Notre Dame in Paris, its rich history - as seen throughout the building - definitely merits a visit from the Lisbon tourist.
The cathedral is in the Alfama district and is easy to reach by taking tram or bus.
Saint George's Castle
Like many famous cities in Europe, Lisbon's roots are centuries old. But few proofs of that are so evident here as that of Saint George's Castle.
First begun in the 6th century by late Romans, it bears a strong stamp of the Moors who inhabited the region after the Visigoths. Conquering the site in the 8th century, the Saracens performed much of the construction on the castle.
Its final form grew during the 12th-14th centuries when it served as the royal palace of several of Portugal's monarchs. It served as the center of government for Portugal during the period, gaining the name Saint George's after King Juan I of Portugal took an English princess as a bride.
After the 'new' Royal Ribeira Palace was built by King Manuel I in the early 16th century, the castle began to decay. A 1531 earthquake hastened that process. Though much of the castle was destroyed by another earthquake in 1755, what remains is still an outstanding window into the past.
The current entrance is through a 19th century gate sporting the coat of arms of Queen Maria 11th, dated 1846. Once through it one can see a number of interesting cannons and a fine bronze statue of King Alfonso Henriques, who expelled the Moors and took over the citadel. Part of the remaining structure is the Ogival House, once part of a 17th century jail.
As with many designs of the period, the grounds housed a castle surrounded by a large defensive wall. From this high perch one can look out onto the outstanding terraces and gardens. On the northwest side there is a series of walkways that lead to the highpoint of the visit: the medieval towers.
One of the inner one's, the Tower of Ulysses, contains a periscope and projector that displays spectacular views of the surrounding area onto the walls of the Interpretation Center inside. Even with the naked eye, though, walking along the ramparts on a hill high above this port city provides a look at the beautiful scenery that is modern Lisbon.
Renovations during the 1940s have helped restore the site to a status that allows visitors to see the grounds safely. Those who do won't be disappointed.
Numerous ducks and geese and swans paddle lazily along the moat. Wandering among the flocks of birds who call the hilltop home, one can see much of Lisbon, both historic and modern. The peacocks provide a view of beauty close up, while the River Tagus, the 25th of Abril Bridge and other sights of Lisbon beckon below.
Saint George's Castle is located near the Alfama district and is easy to reach by tram or taxi. Food and drink are available either at the snack stand or the restaurants outside where the tables provide a fine view.
Sintra
Only half an hour outside Lisbon lies one of the most fascinating sights of this already spectacular area of Portugal: Sintra. Set atop craggy ridges lies the palace that looks down on the town below. Centuries ago the Moors fortified the area leaving the Castelo dos Mouros to look down on the town. The Palácio Nacional da Pena with an even loftier view is also not to be missed.
But, whether high or low, every vista is outstanding.
The Moorish Castle is one of this area's outstanding sights. Begun during the Moorish occupation, it continued to grow under the auspices of the later Portuguese monarchs. King Joao I began a large expansion effort in the late 1300s that continued well into the 1880s.
Be sure to visit the Palácio Nacional de Sintra, too, with its distinctive huge white chimneys. Inside lie many more interesting sights. The Magpie Room (Sala das Pêgas) shows just one example. The ceiling is festooned with these chatty birds, said to represent the many fawning courtiers to the royal court.
The Sala das Armas shows yet another example of Lisbon's love of fine ceramic tile. It also displays many fine shields from the 16th century. Covered with coats-of-arms from every line, they are a lesson in history at the same time they show the high art that touched even warfare.
Sintra grew to its present position as a tourist attraction in the early-19th century, even attracting such notable visitors as Lord Byron. The area soon fell under the romantic gaze of Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, husband of Queen Maria II.
In 1840, collaborating with the Prussian architect Eschwege, he produced the Palácio Nacional da Pena. Displaying a mixture of Bavarian and Manueline architecture, the interior sports an eclectic variety of furnishings and numerous paintings, many by the royal Ferdinand himself.
But even the surroundings themselves are a delight to visitors.
Near the westernmost point of Europe, this section of Portugal enjoys warm sunshine and cool Atlantic breezes. The whole atmosphere, reflected in its people, is one of relaxation and enjoyment. They have much to enjoy.
Not far away is the casino in Cascais. Just a few minutes from it is the famed nightclub, Coconuts, where many of the locals gather to party the night away.
In addition, there is a Formula One racing track near Estoril. Here, visitors can catch one of the internationally famous races. From one section of the course one can see one of the many outstanding beaches in the area. At night, the neighborhood comes to life in the numerous bars that dot the shoreline.
When touring Lisbon, be sure to visit Sintra and take advantage of all it has to offer.
Sintra is easy to reach from Lisbon via bus or train. But for those who really want to see all the area has to offer, a rented car is the ticket.
Museu Calouste Gulbenkian
The Gulbenkian, as it's popularly known, is Lisbon's premier art museum.
The museum is named after an Armenian oil entrepreneur active in the early 20th century. After making his fortune trading in oil in Turkey, Iran and elsewhere he began to gather an art collection comprised of a wide variety of styles. Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Asian and European art all found their way into his rooms.
Later in life he turned his attentions to his beloved Lisbon. The city benefited in several ways, not least of which is the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian. Though not among the world's largest museums, the quality of the works on display is second to none.
In the Egyptian collection resides a famed gold mummy mask that would be the envy of the Metropolitan in New York, itself housing an outstanding wing of ancient artifacts. A well-preserved bowl from 4,000 BC is only one more of the many ancient treasures on display.
Not far away are Greek and Roman coins, statuary and other objects from the ancient world. Even the Getty, with its world famous collection in this category, would give an admiring nod to the Gulbenkian.
Following the chronological order of the displays is simple and leads the visitor gradually into the later eras. The 18th century works are particularly outstanding. Views of Venice from the period by Francesco Guardi compete well with his more famous fellow countryman, Canaletto.
Paintings by Rembrandt and Rubens dot the walls. The Dutch master's Portrait of an Old Man is as exquisite as any one could see in the galleries of Washington, D.C. or the Rijksmuseum. The Pallas Athene provides a different look into a variety that Rembrandt is not often given credit for. Ruben's Portrait of Helen Fourment is not to be missed by any fans of this artist. Further on there are several works by Monet and Renoir.
Besides paintings there are several other forms of art at the Gulbenkian. The Diana by Houdon is among his best works. Rodin's Blessings is housed here. Then there are the delightful samples of French furniture that rival those found in the Louvre. The Italian and Spanish ceramics that sit on top are equally impressive.
Moving still later toward the modern era there are numerous textiles from the 19th century and beyond. The Art Nouveau jewelry nearby is not only lovely, but are excellent representatives of the style and the era. The Lalique glassware and jewelry, given to Gulbenkian by the artist who was a personal friend, are among the best examples to be found anywhere. Not least is his Dragonfly, which adorns many a book cover.
The exterior of the museum offers gardens that are both beautiful and relaxing, especially in the warm Lisbon air that hints of the sea nearby. To get an overall view of the gardens from above, the cafe balcony provides the best spot.
When Lisbon became Gulbenkian's home during World War II it was set to become the fortunate recipient of one of the world's finest small collections of art. You can reach the Gulbenkian museum via the convenient metro, where you'll exit at the S. Sebastião or Praça de Espanha Stations.
Fado
Fado is to Portugal what flamenco is to Spain: a cultural symbol. But there, for the most part, the similarities end. While flamenco is energetic and vigorous, equal parts music and dance, fado is soulful.
This native form of music arose as a confluence of several sources: from the Lundum of Brazil, the songs of the Moors, the chants of the slaves from Africa and many others lost in the mists of history. But whatever the origins, fado has come to be identified with Lisbon, pure and simple.
No other form can quite so completely capture both the melancholy and the striving than fado. Arriving relatively late in Portugal's history, in the early 19th century, it nevertheless represents both the past and present for the country's locals and tourists alike.
Whether it is the famed Amália Rodrigues (deceased in 1999) and her Black Boat song that laments the harsh travel of the African slaves, or a modern street performer's croon that echoes American blues ala B.B. King, fado is everywhere in Lisbon.
Visit a small tavern in the Bairro Alto district and you will inevitably hear some of the heart-wrenching sounds of the fadista. Accompanying himself on the medieval-lute like instrument that is part of the performance, he will play a song of longing that defines the Lisboa soul.
Have a fine meal at any of the upscale restaurants along the Rua das Gáveas and you may hear a variation on the style, more uptempo. Step into the Travessa da Queimada, a club converted from 17th century stables, and you will hear echoes of those long-gone horse caretakers. The drink and the food will warm your soul while the singer shreds it with his music.
Sink into the 'saudade' (loosely translated as longing) and be prepared for a cathartic musical journey with a woman fadista. Dressed in a black shawl, her words may tell of the death of a loved one. Or, they may speak of the striving for freedom so long denied. But underneath the despair you will also hear the passion for living that embues the Portuguese people.
From the Latin word for fate, fado speaks of the inescapable. But it also tears at the heart which yearns for the future. Few other forms of expression can so skillfully capture sadness and joy and intermingle them so well.
Stroll over to the Alfama neighborhood and you will hear a slightly different style, one informed by the Moors who once dominated the area. Full of artists of all types, this area offers fado more similar to that of the students of Coimbra. Wearing the traditional heavy black cape, the strings are strummed and the song begins. Before long the tears start to flow. They are not just tears of sadness, but of readiness to embrace whatever comes.
Plan ahead and you can even attend a performance by the famed group, Madredeus. They will ensure that you don't leave without understanding, at least with the heart if not the mind, the music that is Fado.
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