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WESTERN EUROPE
Vienna, Austria's Grand City
Modern Vienna is divided into 23 Bezirke or districts. The first district, known locally as Innere Stadt and encircled by Ringstrasse, comprises what before 1850 was virtually all of Austria's capital. Within this area are many of the finest attractions of one of Europe's grandest old cities and the traveler with only so much time to spend in Austria can begin here with some wonderful experiences on offer in the city of Vienna.
Parlament (the Austrian Parliament Building) offers an outstanding example of the official architecture of the late 19th century and remains a working Federal building for the legislature. Rathaus, roughly translated as 'Council House', is another. In Vienna, even politics has style.
But for the style that made the city famous take in Hofburg, the Imperial Palace. The Hapsburg summer residence for generations, it is now a series of museums the like of which can not be found elsewhere. Equally grand is the Schonbrunn Palace which also offers the oldest zoo in the world. As with so many things in Vienna, both house works of art while being works of art. Belvedere Palace is yet another example and, while smaller, is no less deserving of a visit.
For art lovers, though, the best possible choice if time is limited is Kunsthistorisches Art Museum. Time shouldn't be too limited, however, because it's possible to spend days enjoying this fascinating collection created by the Hapsburg over centuries.
Across the street is still one more instance of a museum that is a work of art: the Naturhistorisches Museum. Built in the 19th century in the same Italian Renaissance style of the Art History museum listed above, the contents are creations of nature, with a little help from mankind. Along with ancient bears and bees, the museum houses the world's largest meteorite collection.
If insects sitting on rocks are what you seek, though, experience some live ones at Schmetterlinghaus, the Butterfly House. Offering hundreds of the tiny creatures fluttering around freely, this 19th century greenhouse is alone worth the visit.
For larger animals, but ones just as lovely, check out the Lipizzaner stallions at the Spanish Riding School. For centuries these magnificent horses have worked with their riders to demonstrate the finest classical riding in the world. Make sure to make time to visit the museum across the street, housed in the former Imperial Pharmacy.
Get slightly away from the downtown area by taking a trip to the Lainzer Tiergarten (Lainzer Deer Garden). This park is like none other in the world, with freely roaming wild boar amid unfettered tourists. Or, have a park experience minus the animals by strolling through the Burggarten where the only creatures are sculpted hedges.
For something even a little further out, but still close by, enjoy some of Vienna's Heurigen (Wine Taverns). To get even farther away take one of the many Danube River cruises available.
When you get back, be sure to visit some of Vienna's world-class shops and pick up some items you won't find in New York or Paris. When you do, you won't need a Strauss composition to waltz all the way home.
The Belvedere Palaces
Set in a sweeping park filled with over 4,000 plants is one of Vienna's premier attractions: the two Belvedere Palaces.
The smaller of the two was erected in 1716 and the grand Upper Palace was completed in 1722. Both offer an outstanding look at the Rococo style popular during the early 18th century. Ownership passed to the Republic of Austria in 1914 and the palaces and grounds became open to the public.
Gardens link the two and include elegant fountains, numerous sculpture, and offer Europe's first alpine garden, completed in 1803. As you might expect after visiting a place like Versailles, the gardens are immaculately kept, the hedges as perfectly sculpted as the marble figures nearby.
The palaces were originally constructed for the Austrian military commander Prince Eugene of Savoy, famed for conquering the Turks in 1683. Yet, it's easy to imagine one of the Hapsburgs strolling along not long after. Late spring and early summer are the best times for those who want to see the largest possible percentage of flowers in bloom, but the gardens are lovely at any time of year.
Inside the Lower Belvedere resides the Marmorsaal (Marble Hall), which easily lives up to its name. It also houses the Spiegelsaal (Mirror Hall) that does likewise.
In the interior of the Upper Belvedere can be found several rooms built for the lavish masked balls enjoyed by the royals of the period. The Audienzsaal (Reception Room), the Spiegelkabinett (Mirror Cabinet), the Konferenzsaal (Conference Hall), and Kaffeezimmer (Coffee Room) are all open to the public.
But for many, the biggest attraction is not the buildings themselves, nor the magnificent grounds, but the art collections housed in them.
The lower palace is home to the Austrian Museum of Baroque Art and offers, among others, just what its title says. There are works throughout this art period of the 18th century that are among the best samples anywhere.
The upper palace is home to galleries that offer Austrian art from the 19th through the 20th centuries, including many famous works from the Secessionist movement. Members included Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, and Oskar Kokoschka all of whom are well known in art circles. The Klimt works, in particular, continue to draw big crowds. Though five of the more well-known paintings were awarded in a lawsuit that saw them auctioned off many remain, including his most famous: The Kiss.
There is a sprinkling of non-Austrians here and there, as well, including a Renoir, a Monet, and a few others.
The Museum of Medieval Art is also a part of the galleries and it is well worth a look both for those interested in art from the Middle Ages as well as amateur historians. The Prunkstall, or ornamental stall, in the former Palace Stables, offers views of dozens of paintings from the period.
A separate building called the Orangery, the former Pomeranzenhaus (Orange House), offers another delightful garden and 18th century building to view and houses temporary exhibits.
City Hall and Rathaus Park
To the ear of an English speaker it might seem deeply ironic that the City Hall of Vienna is called the Rathaus. But accidental associations with the character of politicians aside, this neo-Gothic building and nearby park are among Vienna's most delightful tourist offerings.
Deepening the irony, the City Hall building (erected in 1883) is often referred to as the 'New City Hall'. It replaced the old one at that time and visitors to this wonderful city are the beneficiaries. The building is a splendid example of a style that had seen a sharp revival around the end of the 19th century mostly thanks to several World Fairs featuring it.
Its central spire soars 98m (300 feet) above the plaza ringed by the street that has a most appropriate name, Ringstrasse. By design, the delicately decorated facade is highly reminiscent of a cathedral from hundreds of years earlier.
Visitors who have enjoyed the style in Paris, London, or elsewhere will not be disappointed in this example. In the upper section are the structure's well-regarded loggia, sporting highly ornate tracery next to its curved balconies.
The grounds are equally stunning, offering seven individual courtyards festooned with flowers and plants that offer an oasis in this bustling Austrian metropolis. Summer concerts are regularly scheduled in the Arkadenhof courtyard.
But the music festivities are only a small part of the activities that take place in the Rathaus grounds and associated park. There is a Christmas Market festival held at Rathausplatz that attracts huge numbers of both locals and tourists every year. An equally famous and well attended Film Festival takes place during the entire month of August every year in the nearby City Hall Park.
In the park gather thousands to enjoy the greenery, celebrate Vienna's warm summers, or just to people watch. Like any large, well-known city visitors will find all sorts here. But the entire area is safe and festive and everyone has a good time.
Not far away from the famed Burgtheater, the park and Rathaus frame two ends of a portion of Ringstrasse, one of the main thoroughfares encircling what is known as the First District, or Innere Stadt. This section would be known in other cities as Old Town, but in a city like Vienna the phrase takes on a whole knew meaning.
Prior to 1850 the Innere Stadt simply was Vienna. Since then, the city has grown to encompass a larger area, while the population of this section has declined from 73,000 to about 17,000 over the hundred-year period.
Tourists are the beneficiaries, since it allows them to enjoy the City Hall park free from the crowds one might see in, say, Central Park in New York. Though popular, the park isn't wall-to-wall people. Instead, it's possible to take a delightful stroll or ride a bicycle or even have a tennis match without having to worry too much about others. Open food stalls and a beer garden make for an equally delightful atmosphere in the evenings.
Danube River Cruises
Think of Venice and gondola rides immediately come to mind. Visit St. Petersburg and a cruise on the Neva becomes a must. But Vienna has its own unique waterway, the Danube River that will provide a journey that is equally unforgettable.
Anyone who has enjoyed a larger cruise ship knows already what that means. But Danube River cruises offer something a little different. With smaller ships that offer just over 70 cabins, cruisers will enjoy a quieter, more intimate experience. Many trips offer cabins as large as 170 square feet. That's 10 feet by 17 feet, larger than many hotels or bedrooms at home.
Sliding down the Danube, or Donau as it's known locally, you'll be feted with food and plied with drink. As you indulge you can take in the sights of one of Europe's grandest cities.
Trips as short as a few hours are an option, by leisurely ferry or speed boat. Longer cruises take in cities as distant as Prague, Budapest, or Passau at the Austria-Germany border. Starting at Passau allows visitors to see one of the largest Baroque cathedrals in Germany at the confluence of the Danube, Inn, and Ilz Rivers.
Cruises may last a day or even weeks as they sail up the Main, the Rhine, and other rivers that intersect with the Danube. Local trips usually last a day. Passau to Vienna is typically a five day trip. Bucharest to Vienna takes three weeks.
DDSG Blue Danube Schiffahrt has a selection of 1-day or 2-day trips that take in some of Vienna's most popular sights, including the Ringturm, Ruprechts Church, and the Rossauer Kaserne. The trip from Reichsbrucke back to Schwedenplatz passes by beautiful scenery, as well as offering outstanding views of the Millennium Tower, the Danube Tower, and UN City.
Others might enjoy one of the many cruises from Vienna to Durnstein, or a hydrofoil trip all the way to Budapest. The latter offers sightseeing in Esztergom for those who are including Hungary along with their trip to Vienna.
Many of the trips, even short ones, include a champagne and candlelight dinner. As romantic waltz music plays in the background, visitors enjoy the sights of Vienna along the waterfront. The UN Building at night is a spectacular sight, as are the multicolored buildings of designer Friedensreich Hundertwasser.
Some trips begin with a wine reception at the Rathaus during Christmas Festival. Others will start with a concert of Mozart and Strauss or a tour of the Melk Abbey. Then it's all aboard for the cruise of a lifetime.
Kunsthistorisches, The Fine Arts Museum
Like many royal families, the Hapsburgs were avid art collectors. Rulers of the Austro-Hungarian Empire for centuries they had ample means, time, and opportunity to scour the continent for the finest available over many generations. The results of many of their efforts are housed in the Kunsthistorisches.
While the name in medieval German would be translated something like 'history of craft' (and now as 'art history') there is no doubt that the contents are fine art. Within the walls of the various museums are some of the most well known names in the world in that particular craft.
The museum complex has at its core two separate palaces erected during the 19th century, along with several smaller adjunct areas. The grand staircase of the main building provides the starting point to the picture galleries (the Gemaldegalerie). The paintings remain among the most often visited works of the collection and it's not hard to see why.
The Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian from the mid-15th century is one reason. The Young Woman at her Toilet by Bellini, painted in 1515, is another. There are also several Caravaggios, including David with the Head of Goliath and Madonna of the Rosary. There are hundreds of works of the Flemish and Dutch masters along with 16th century Venetian paintings. The KHM boasts the most comprehensive collection of Brueghels of any museum in the world.
The Spanish are well represented, too, and include numerous portraits by Velazquez of the various Hapsburg family members. One entire room is devoted to nothing but paintings of the royal family by this master of the early to mid-17th century.
Many more modern works are not hard to find, either. Klimt is well represented, along with several other Viennese artists of the late 19th-early 20th centuries. Temporary exhibits often feature contemporary artists, as well.
But those interested in other forms of art will be equally satisfied. A golden salt cellar by Cellini is part of the collection. In the Egyptian section there is a bust of King Thutmosis III. Sculpture and decorative objet d'arts can be found in the Kunstkammer (art chamber). There is a large museum devoted to Carriages and Court Uniforms, as well. The royal coin collections are well-regarded by numismatists everywhere.
Egyptian and Near Eastern Antiquities comprise yet another collection. Ancient artifacts from Greece and Rome fill large wings. Arms and Armor are found in a separate area called the Ephesus Museum. The collection of Ancient Musical Instruments are technically part of the KHM, too. Both are housed in the Imperial Palace, rather than the main building on Maria Theresienplatz. Items in Schonbrunn Palace also fall under the same official KHM umbrella.
Whatever period or style of art is your favorite, you'll find it in abundance at the Kunsthistorisches.
Spanish Riding School
Known locally in Vienna as the Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish Riding School), this home of the world famous Lipizzaner stallions is far more than just a group of fancy stables.
It offers one of the finest exhibitions of classical horseback riding anywhere. That exhibition is enhanced by being offered in a Baroque hall that is part of the Hofburg Imperial Palace, this part completed in 1735.
For centuries the school has been housing these fine animals and teaching royalty, the well-to-do, and now a wide variety of students how to ride. Visitors to Vienna today are the lucky recipients, since they can watch the action.
A combination of lesson, show, and exhibition add up to sheer entertainment for both rider and audience. Dressage performed here raises this common 'horse dance' to a high art.
Visitors will clap loudly as they watch these stunning animals and their highly skilled riders go through the paces accompanied by music. Set in a building that one can easily imagine as the venue of a ball, you'll want to dance along with the horses.
Also part of the facility is the first-rate Lipizzaner Museum showcasing many of the tools of the trade. It's across the street from the Winter Riding School, in the Stallburg (Stable Palace). The museum, housed in what was once the Imperial Pharmacy, will easily prove that even Hapsburg horses were treated like royalty. Halters, saddles, and more are on display, many of which once graced ancestors of these white equine delights.
Among other sights, visitors will have an opportunity to explore the history of the Lipizzaner stallion. The original breed is a descendant from Spanish-Arabian stock. Later ones evolved from a combination of Neapolitan, Kladruber, and other bloodlines. The ones currently making their home here are the offspring of horses bred in Austria since the 1560's, derived from stock in Lipizza in Slovenia.
The museum offers paintings, engravings, photographs and more that provide visitors with information about the horses, their lives and environment, and those who owned and bred them.
Born black and turning pure white in maturity, there are only about 2,100 left in the world, according to official sources. They are listed on the endangered species list.
Tickets to the show quickly become equally rare far in advance. Those interested should book several months ahead. Normal tickets are pricey, but to just watch a practice session deep discounts are available.
Vienna's Famous Musicians
Mention Vienna and you can't fail to evoke thoughts of one or more of its famous musicians. From Mozart to Brahms, this grand city has either given birth to or hosted a dozen who permanently reside in the pantheon of the greats.
Joseph Haydn has intimate ties to Vienna and for ten years even sang in the Vienna Boys Choir, starting in 1740 at age 8. St. Stephan's Cathedral heard not only his voice but his violin playing. In his late 30s he left to become Kapellmeister in Eisenstadt, but returned briefly in 1790, becoming one of the cities most famous citizens.
Mozart began his musical instruction by age 4, performing for the Hapsburg monarchs at age 6 in the Hall of Mirrors at Schloss Schonbrunn. Empress Maria Theresia was so delighted he became a court favorite, finally moving to Vienna in 1781 at age 25.
Here, after a short stint with the Archbishop of Salzburg as employer, he became the official musician of St. Peter's Church in Innere Stadt. He was married in Stephansdom and later moved his family to an apartment that can be seen today in the First District. Burggarten holds an outstanding Mozart memorial.
Franz Schubert also sang in the Vienna Boys Choir, beginning in 1805 also at age 8. He composed for them as early as age 14. By 1814 he had produced solo piano pieces, string quartets, and his first symphony. A manuscript contains, in his handwriting, an inscription he wrote on leaving the choir. It says, "F. Schubert has crowed for the last time."
The great Beethoven received his education in Bonn, Germany but moved to Vienna in 1787, studying with both Mozart and Haydn. He made his first public appearance here at the Vienna Burgtheater. Vienna's adopted son debuted several of his famous works here, including the Symphony No. 5 and his opera, Fidelio. A frieze created by Gustav Klimt that is a pictorial representation of Beethoven's famed 9th Symphony is on display at The Secession.
Of course, no composer is more closely associated with Vienna than Johann Strauss, Jr, born in October of 1825. He gave his first concert here at the Dommayer in Hietzing, a suburb of the city. He was educated by his father, also a renowned musician of Vienna. By the time of his father's death in 1849 Strauss had already assured his fame as the waltz composer of the ages.
Though he'll always be remembered for the Blue Danube, Strauss composed much more than waltzes. His first operetta, Die Fledermaus, premiered in 1871 and he went on to great success as a composer for the stage, penning 17 operettas in all.
While Brahms was born in Hamburg, he is often associated with Austria's capital, thanks to becoming manager of the Vienna Singers' Academy in 1862. His love for the city is obvious in such pieces as 'Gesellschaft der Musikfreunde in Wien'.
Visit Vienna and take in many of the sights that have remained unchanged since the days of these musical giants.
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