Hong Kong

Hong Kong Island sits on the Pearl River Delta, bordering Guangdong province to the north and facing the South China Sea to the east, west and south. It has a population of nearly 7 million souls, and when you include those who commute in and out of the city each day, that number swells to over 15 million. Hong Kong is one of the most densely populated areas in the world and one of the most dynamic economic centers on the planet.

Hong Kong was originally a very busy and lucrative trading port. It became a dependent territory of Great Britain in 1842, and remained so until the transfer of its sovereignty to the People's Republic of China in 1997. Along with Macau, Hong Kong is regarded as a special administrative region which is not considered part of mainland China. Hong Kong still retains a high degree of autonomy, is largely self-governing, and maintains its traditional highly capitalist economy.

It is also a goldmine of things to see and do for tourists. In fact, there's no good place to start or end because there is so much more than could ever be experienced within a few days.

Visitors could start by getting a good workout followed by a spectacular sight. No, walking up Victoria Peak isn't a good idea. But climbing the 431 steps to reach the Temple of 10,000 Buddhas is. It actually delivers more than it offers - a Hong Kong habit - by containing 12,800 statues of the Buddha. And don't miss the holy man mummy covered with gold leaf.

If 431 is overdoing it, try the 268 steps to reach the Big Buddha on Lantau Island. After seeing the world's largest seated Buddha, completed in 1993, you can relax and have a great lunch at the Polin Monastery. Then take your time walking down the 33m (110 foot) height.

On the Kowloon Peninsula, just across from Hong Kong Island there are dozens of sights, including some spectacular museums. You can wander the neighborhood and see the Hong Kong area pretty much the way it has been for 200 years. The stalls may offer the latest cell phones, but the ambiance is definitely old-world.

After soaking up some of the local culture, take a stroll over to the Hong Kong Heritage Museum. This excellent facility gives visitors a great overview of Chinese art in all its forms from comic strips to opera to painting and sculpture. Take in the Lei Cheng Uk Branch Museum and see a Han Dynasty tomb from China's 'recent' history, only 2,000 years old. It may be the oldest historical monument in Hong Kong, but that's still young compared to some of the 4,000 year old civilizations elsewhere in China.

Then zoom into the modern world and check out the Hong Kong Science Museum. The hands-on exhibits will delight while they entertain. The same could be said for the Space Museum, which houses the local planetarium. Take then the most famous 10-minute boat ride in Asia, the Star Ferry, over to Hong Kong Island and take in some more ancient Chinese art at the Hong Kong Museum of Art. Located in the Hong Kong Cultural Center, it holds over 2,000 Chinese antiques.

Finally take a breather from all the metropolitan hustle and bustle and stroll through the Hong Kong Park in the Central district. Sit by the pond and watch the birds or wander through the stellar aviary to see even more variety. Have a meal at the open-air restaurant and rest your feet. If you're not quite fully refreshed, take a leisurely walk to a site about 10 minutes away and visit the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens.

Then catch a taxi to the tram that leads up to the top of Victoria Peak. This funicular railway (a cab suspended by cables) leads up the steep mountain to the area of $10 million homes owned by the richest of Hong Kong's rich. Enjoy the sight they see from their balconies and look out over Hong Kong and the harbor. Whether seen by day or night the lush, ancient hills and the harbor contrast beautifully with the ultra-modern skyscrapers for a view duplicated nowhere else.

As you stand there dreaming of a glorious future - another Hong Kong habit - you can soak up some memories of one of the world's great cities.
 
Lantau Island & Surroundings

Just as Hong Kong is itself an island, just off the mainland from Kowloon, so there are others less well known but equally worth a visit. Lantau Island, which houses the now famous Po Lin Monastery and the Tian Tan Buddha, is the central starting point for visits to these historical treasures.

Lantau Island is home to much more than the exquisite Po Lin monastery and famed giant Buddha statue. A short bike ride from the monastery is Mui Wo. For those who prefer a less strenuous form of transportation there's also a convenient bus from the main depot at Po Lin. Mui Wo is on Silvermine Bay, named after the 19th century silver mines that provided wealth for some and hope for others. The Silvermine Cave where most of the digging took place is now sealed off for safety reasons, but the area still offers much to see.

The peaceful coastal waters and many trails aside lush greenery make the side trip well worth the effort. Located on the southwest corner of Lantau Island is Fan Lau, a fort built in 1729 to protect shipping on the Pearl River. Once among the most notorious areas - hotbed of smugglers of guns, drugs and people - the fort now provides arrivals with a more peaceful visit. The ruins provide an interesting look back to a - happily - bygone era.

West of Lantau Island is Tai O, known as 'Hong Kong's Venice'. Housing several temples, including Guandi, Yanghou and Hongshenye, this tiny fishing village offers visitors excellent shrimp paste and fish. After a small meal, explore some of the waterways and pedestrian bridges that make this island facing the South China Sea so spectacular. Among the many interesting sights are the pang uk, houses built on stilts over the waterways.

The occupants of those houses are the descendants of an ancient people, the Tanka. Immigrants to the Hong Kong area during the Han Dynasty, the Tanka have been fishing and navigating these waters for hundreds of generations. Visitors can pay one of the local boat owners a small fee and take a trip out in hopes of catching sight of one of the renowned Chinese white dolphins.

The village also houses a small museum for visitors, but the streets themselves offer the best source of information about the area. Residents can tell polite visitors anything they want to know about its ancient history or contemporary situation. For those truly looking for something out of the way, try a visit to Peng Chau.

Along the quiet green hills, hikers can take a journey back through time only a short ferry ride away from bustling, ultra-modern Hong Kong. Here you can enjoy a visit to the small Tin Hau temple, built in 1792. Walk around the less than one square kilometer island and take a hike up to Finger Hill, then take the ferry back to Hong Kong.

Hong Kong's nearby island neighbors are welcoming and ready to proudly display their ancient heritage.
 

 
Po Lin Monastery

Sited atop Lantau Island on the Ngong Ping plateau, lies one of the most frequently visited sights in Hong Kong - the Po Lin Monastery. There's enough to see and do in and around the monastery to consume a vacation day or more, so plan ahead.

The trip there is an adventure in itself. Take the MTR (the excellent Hong Kong subway system) to Tung Chung. Outside at the bus terminal, board the No. 23. The ride can take an hour or longer and winding your way up the mountainside provides a pair of delights. Riders get to see some of the superb countryside and seaside near Hong Kong and at the same time experience the harrowing joy of a typical Chinese rollercoaster bus ride.

Founded in 1924 as a sanctuary for Buddhist monks, the Po Lin Monastery offers superb sights both inside and out. The view from the top looking out over the sea and mountainside is breathtaking. You'll be free to look around at the exterior, which provides a superior example of the architecture and art of the period and style. The monastery is festooned with small statues and inscriptions. The surrounding grounds make it easy to imagine the tranquility that motivated the monks to make it their home.

You can experience a small taste of that lifestyle for yourself by purchasing a meal ticket and enjoying the vegetarian lunch prepared by the monks in the dining hall. Inside the temple, it isn't necessary to remove your shoes, nor to wear long pants as required by Buddhist temples elsewhere. Simply acquire an incense stick and offer three bows to the ancestors who watch over the monks and their sacred building. Place your incense sticks in the holder and then enjoy the many colorful and intricate carvings and decorations.

Visitors can even stay overnight and see the rising sun the next morning. The view of the light spilling onto Fong Wong Shan Mountain, twice the height of Victoria Peak, has inspired the monks for decades in their peaceful retreat.

From the temple gate, look out toward the top of Muyushan Mountain. You'll be able to clearly make out a large copper statue of the seated Sakyamuni, reaching 26 meters (85 feet) high. Sakyamuni was the sage of the Sakyas, a Buddhist-Lamaist (Tibet) god and the historical Buddha. Here known as Tian Tan or The Big Buddha, the statue was constructed over a steel frame and completed in 1993 after a 10-year construction effort. It sits atop the plateau, reached by climbing 268 steps.

Stand at the base and take in the setting first. Around the pedestal is a three-story exhibition hall containing a large bell. Rung 108 times per day, it is said to relieve the 108 vexations. As you listen to the chimes, you can take in the many finely carved Buddhist figures. Then walk up and glance around to take in the view the Buddha has, from an island twice the size of Hong Kong itself. You'll begin to feel, perhaps, as the monks do about Lantau Island and the Po Lin Monastery.
 
A Stroll Through Kowloon Park

Hong Kong, like New York is a concrete island. Also like Manhattan, Hong Kong has built a 'Central Park' as an oasis in the middle of the bustling metropolis - Kowloon Park.

Once a British military base, the park offers over 13 hectares (33 acres) of greenery, sculpture, swimming pools and quiet gardens and buildings. There's even a large piazza for concerts gracing the park. Visitors to Hong Kong could easily spend a weekend vacation in Kowloon and still not see it all.

For those who want to relax in an active way, the park provides several athletic facilities. For younger kids there are two playgrounds with supplied equipment and the bruise-proof floor helps parents' minds rest easy. Kids will love The Discovery Playground, reconstructed from some of the old British fort components, including cannon. Older 'kids' of all ages can enjoy soccer, handball or take a ride along one of the many bike paths. The Sports Centre features regular events and anyone can have a game of squash or basketball.

For those who like their physical activity a little more serene there are still dozens of choices. A simple walk down the lane among the greenery is an option in many parts of the park. Birdwatching is an often enjoyed activity along the way. Bird Lake hosts a variety of species and the aviary holds nearly forty local waterfowl types.

Tai Chi is a common activity in Kowloon Park, often with advanced masters leading a group of regulars and drop-ins from the local stock exchange who want to relieve a little stress. Guests are welcome to join in. For purely mental exercise there are numerous tables in Banyan Court with chess games always in progress. Visitors can watch quietly or test their skill against one of the elder experts who frequent the park.

Just walking along to see the sights is a pleasant combination of physical and mental exercise. The many sculpture in Sculpture Park provide a mini-outdoor museum. The multi-colored bird sculpture spiraling around the fountain is a particular favorite of the locals. One of the more unusual offerings is the large totem pole, a gift from Canada. Any of the Chinese gardens will delight fans of botanical gardens. Woven throughout the park, they offer a variety of local plant and flower species. Set off among them are several ponds, including the delightful turtle pond holding several who happily while away the day in the cool shade and clear water.

If you feel like emulating the turtles, there's a public swimming pool in Kowloon Park that's open to locals and tourists alike. A swim is often a good way to get information about Hong Kong that isn't in the tour guides from a friendly resident. But visitors don't need to feel pressured to do anything. Just sitting in one of the many quiet nooks, reading or merely soaking in the surroundings is a commonly enjoyed pastime in Kowloon Park.
 
Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb

Unearthed in 1955, the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb is a stellar example of a Han Dynasty burial chamber, nearly 2,000 years old. Discovered while excavating for the present Lei Cheng Uk estate, the tomb has undergone extensive study and renovation since its opening to the public in 1957.

The tomb shows ample evidence of the influence of the Eastern Han Dynasty, including an inscription of Panyu on the tomb bricks. Panyu was a province of the period encompassing what is now Hong Kong. The design and other calligraphy establishes its age and history. Now enclosed and visible through a large glass panel, the tomb contains four chambers in the shape of a cross.

The design has no Christian religious significance, since Christianity was unknown in China at the time (Han Dynasty: 25AD-220AD). Artifacts from the burial site, such as food storage, pottery and cooking vessels show the Chinese emphasis on food goes back millennia. Two of the recovered objects were bronze utensils and all are authentic. Also discovered were bronze bells, washing basins and mirrors, but oddly no human skeletal remains.

Next to the tomb is a large exhibit hall with photos, videos and other displays showing the history of the tomb and the excavation and conservation efforts. A 3D digital animation video provides visitors with a detailed, 360 degree look inside the tomb. (There's also a life-sized replica of the tomb at the Hong Kong Museum of History.) Since you can no longer enter the actual tomb, the video provides a 'next-best' view of the domed vault at the center and the four barrel-vaulted chambers. Visitors will get a thorough explanation, through audio and text, of the efforts undertaken to preserve and understand the tomb. You can read all about how the inscriptions were deciphered and the means by which the artifacts were dated.

Next to the museum, you can stroll through the Han Garden. Completed in 1993, the Chinese garden follows the style of the Han Dynasty and adds to the re-creation of the atmosphere of the period. The garden includes pavilions, fishponds, terraces and rock sculptures typical of the times.

The tomb and grounds were once at the shore, but owing to modern land reclamations they are now over a mile inland. Don't expect an Egyptian-style or ancient Scottish-style burial site, though. The tomb is surrounded by modern streets and buildings and covered with a modern protective canopy.

Getting to the museum and tomb site is easy. Simply take the West Rail to the Nam Cheong Station. Board bus No. 36A toward Lei Muk Shu and exit at Trade Square. Or, take the excellent MTR subway train to Cheung Sha Wan Station (A3) and walk along Tonkin Street to 41 Tonkin.
 
The Star Ferry and Victoria Harbor

Founded as the Kowloon Ferry, the Star Ferry has been transporting passengers from the mainland to Hong Kong Island and back for over a hundred years. Over that time the view has changed, but the romance has not. Until the early 1970s it was the only way to make the journey. Today, in another sense, it's still the only way to make the journey. That is, if you want to travel in style and see everything Victoria Harbor offers.

Though there are now tunnel enclosed roads and train tracks, the Star Ferry continues to offer visitors and locals alike a quick, but delightfully scenic ride. The trip takes only about 10 minutes across the water from Hong Kong Island's Central district to Tsim Sha Tsui (the main tourist area in Kowloon) and other areas nearby.

The beginning of the journey is auspicious. Take in the 90-year-old Victoria Clock Tower standing near the ultra-modern Cultural Center on Tsim Sha Tsui. Spend a few minutes examining some of the aging red rickshaws that have been preserved at the dock. Then travel down the ramp to board one of the colorful ferry boats; different colors for different destinations. If you're lucky you'll be on the Celestial Star, built in 1956 and still going strong.

Along the way, riders can see the glorious Hong Kong skyline, magnificent by day or night. The distinctive, narrow Bank of China building and the Victorian era Legislative Council Building are in full view across the harbor. The Stock Exchange building is in front of you along with the Shanghai Bank, with its notable geometric shape. Watch for the dome of the Space Museum or the outline of Harbor City, Hong Kong's huge indoor shopping center.

Take the trip again at night and enjoy the same view seen an entirely different way. The night skyline of Hong Kong is a rival even to the glorious Manhattan scene it resembles. Be sure to ride on the top of the double-decker boat to get the best effect. The upper deck is considered a first class ticket, and costs all of about 10 cents more. You'll be glad of the air-conditioned compartments during Hong Kong's hot and often humid summers. (The cost of the ride is currently $2.20 HK, about 28 cents US.) If you enjoy the ocean spray and want to get the experience of the humming engines, choose the lower deck and save a few pennies. (Price: $1.70HK, or 22 cents US.)

Even though the service carries over 70,000 passengers a day, the ferry leaves every few minutes so you'll never have to wait long. For a ride that's more tour than transport, try the one that takes a circular route to all the ferry's destinations. That trip still takes only about an hour.

Nathan Road, the major shopping destination for many of Hong Kong's visitors, is only a short distance from one of the ferry's terminals for those travelling from the island to Kowloon. At the terminal there are buses that travel throughout Kowloon and the New Territories, but the taxis are an adventure you won't want to miss. A bit more money, but just think of the fare as the cost of a combined transport and Disneyland ride through Hong Kong's streets.
 

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