St. Petersburg - Venice of the North

St. Petersburg is a fascinating mixture of old-style Russia and Gilded Age Europe. Tsar Peter decided to move the capital and founded his new progressive city devoted to culture and science, on the banks of the River Neva in 1703.

For generations, artists and engineers from Italy, France, Germany and elsewhere were employed to build bridges, palaces, churches and the wide, European style boulevards of St Petersburg. The city grew and prospered, and was known as the Venice of the North for its canals and bridges... 500 at last count, connecting this City of 101 Islands.

St Petersburg's waterways are a thriving mode of transportation. From the canals, to the Neva River, and out into the Gulf of Finland, visitors can experience a variety of boat rides. You can take a speed boat ride out to Peterhof and its famed fountains, or a week-long cruise south to Moscow or north into Scandinavia.

There are hundreds of great shops and fine restaurants along Nevsky Prospekt, the city's main shopping avenue. Lose yourself for an hour or two in the huge, block- long Bolshoi Gostiny Dvor department store. Stop into Yeliseev's grocery store and get a feel for food shopping in St Petersburg. Built in 1902 it offers gilded ceilings, ornate chandeliers and stained glass windows... not by any means your average supermarket.

Visit one of St. Petersburg's many outdoor markets, or stop into a cafe such as the Mocco Club for a sandwich. For upscale dining, check out the Olympia and do a little gambling at the casino after your four-star meal.

St. Petersburg's Monuments

Italy is famous for its outdoor fountains and sculpture. Paris, too, has its Arc de Triomphe and dozens more. But St. Petersburg, Russia is no slouch when it comes to monuments. Tourists flock to this 'Venice of the North' in part because it has dozens of noteworthy sights for those who love to stroll around a city.

The Bronze Horseman, one of many tributes to the city's founder, Peter the Great, stands in Senatskaia Ploschad. It sits near the Admiralty facing the Neva River, not far from St. Isaac's Cathedral. Sponsored by Catherine the Great as a tribute to Tsar Peter, it shows the founder of St. Petersburg atop a horse, in Roman style. With a pedestal made from a single block of red granite molded in the shape of a cliff, it is one of the cities must-see outdoor attractions.

The Alexander Column is another monument to one of Russia's rulers, in this case the Tsar who opposed Napoleon in the early 19th century. Almost 156 feet/47.5 m tall, it is topped with an angel holding a cross. Interestingly, like many aspects of St. Petersburg, the style of the cross is not Russian Orthodox, but Protestant. Designed by the architect of St. Isaac's Cathedral it is one of the city's finest outdoor sights.

Catherine the Great Unveiled in 1873 - this outstanding work depicts the woman who almost single-handedly led Russia into the modern European world. She is surrounded by several figures who helped carry out her plans. There are images of General Suvorov, Prince Potemkin and Ekaterina Dashkova, the first woman to chair the Russian Academy of Sciences. Located just off Nevsky Prospekt, not far from Anichkov Palace, it shows the great woman in a contemplative pose, holding her scepter and an olive wreath. The pedestal is intricately carved and adds to the effect of this fine monument.

The Dostoyevsky Statue - Not all monuments in St. Petersburg are dedicated to its rulers. Among this city of culture is a great statue of the famed writer Dostoyevsky, erected only in 1997. The sculpture is located in Vladimirskaya Ploshchad, across from Vladimir Cathedral in the neighborhood where the great author began and ended his career. Though a recent work, it is (unlike many modern sculptures) recognizable and a tribute to a giant of literature. Seated, observing his surroundings, the statue shows him relaxed, but concentrated as befits the subject. Siege of Leningrad

Last, but far from least on our list, is the superb monument to those who withstood the 900-day Siege of Leningrad during WWII. St. Petersburg was renamed Leningrad after the Bolshevik Revolution, then reverted to its historical name after the dissolution of the Soviet system. At the center is an obelisk that serves as the focal point of a ring lit with gas torches. Unlike many outdoor monuments, this one has an interior as well. In an underground memorial hall there is an exhibition that provides a wealth of sights and information about that historic period of St. Petersburg's past. There are numerous sculptures, a documentary and English-speaking guides that add to the experience. One could easily spend a week or more just walking and viewing St. Petersburg's impressive list of monuments.

The Narva Triumphal Arch, the Moscow Triumphal Gates and even the humble statue of the 'Tsar Carpenter' and many more are all worth a visit in this city dedicated to culture.
 

 

The Hermitage and Winter Palace

By far one of the most popular attractions in St. Petersburg, the Winter Palace (which houses The Hermitage art museum), deserves the crowds it attracts. It is an outstanding series of structures as well as one of the world's finest art museums.

Completed in 1762, it was the home of Russia's monarchs for 150 years, starting with Catherine the Great. Her love for art created a vast collection that formed the largest part of the works for decades. The initial collection grew out of 255 paintings the Empress purchased from Berlin, and has grown to over 2.7 million objects.

The interior of this Baroque masterpiece has been extensively remodeled since its construction. After an 1837 fire devastated much of the building, entire wings were redone. Over the years four more buildings were added, with the entire set taking up a substantial strip along the Neva River. The result is a palace festooned with gold-leaf and one of the largest (ex-)residences in existence.

The museum itself is a work of art. Just viewing the many architectural details and the surrounding grounds of these structures could take days. With over a thousand rooms done in the Rococo style, there is far more to see than can be appreciated in even a few days. Encompassing six buildings with 117 grand staircases, it would take weeks just to walk the interior. But the main attractions for most visitors are inside, among the magnificent art collection.

There are fifty rooms dedicated to the French masters alone. There are over 350 rooms housing Catherine's collection, along with works obtained by her successors. The works on display are some of the finest from a long line of Europe's masters.

There are two works by da Vinci, one by Michelangelo and several by Raphael. There are Titians and Rembrandts and a great many Rubens. Later Impressionists are very well represented in works by Monet and Pizzaro, van Gogh and Renoir. Manet, Degas and Matisse hang not far from Gauguin.

But beyond the classic European-style masterworks there are thousands of artifacts from Ancient Egypt through early 20th century Europe and Asia. There are Greek and Roman antiquities that rival the best anywhere. For a preview of the museum and its contents, visitors can view the fine website associated with the Winter Palace and The Hermitage. By going to www.hermitagemuseum.org, one can view images of dozens of the masterpieces forming part of the collections.

All Russia photographs © 2008 Sue Rauch

Palace Square

Dvortsovaya Ploshchad, Palace Square in English, is the premier outdoor gathering place in St. Petersburg. As early as 1905, it was a site of upheaval. On Bloody Sunday palace guards opened fire on demonstrators. Only 12 years later, in October 1917, it was the staging area for the storming of the Winter Palace at the beginning of the Bolshevik Revolution.

Though typically much less violent today, it continues to serve as the host for political demonstrations in Russia's second largest city. But it isn't just a location for protesters. It contains some of the city's most interesting architecture and monuments. Whether covered with winter snow, or reflecting St. Petersburg's warm summer sunshine, it provides one of the city's most outstanding views.

On the northern side is the famed (and infamous) Winter Palace completed in 1762. Commissioned during the reign of Tsarina Elizabeth, daughter of Peter the Great, Catherine was the first to occupy the palace. Long a home to Russia's subsequent rulers, it served as the headquarters of the Kerensky government after Nicholas II was deposed.

On the opposite side, the Imperial Army General Staff building, gleaming in yellow and white, can be seen. Completed in 1829, part of the building forms a Triumphal Arch, a fine example of St. Petersburg's great monuments. Above the arch is a 33ft/10m-high sculpture of a chariot drawn by six horses. Through the archway visitors can reach Nevsky Prospekt, the major shopping district.

To the east is the former Royal Guards building, to the west the Admiralty housing an outstanding garden. From this vantage point, visitors can see the huge dome of St. Isaac's Cathedral and the gilded spire of the Admiralty building, completed in 1823. It served as headquarters of the Russian Navy until 1917 and now houses a naval college.

In the center of this enormous open plaza is the 155ft/47m-high Alexander Column, a monument to the Tsar's triumph over Napoleon in 1814. Erected in 1834, the granite column is topped by an angel holding a cross. Standing near it early in the day and looking around the large space, it's easy to imagine oneself in the early 19th century. The view has changed very little, judging from paintings and photos. Carriage rides are a popular option for those who want a view of the square as royalty might have seen it two centuries ago. For a modest 200 rubles, riders get a brief ride around the square. A 20-minute tour costs around 2,000 rubles. The latter is pricey at nearly $80. But the tour can accommodate up to six, so split six-ways it isn't outrageous.

Inside the Winter Palace is the Hermitage and other collections that comprise one of the world's premier art museums. The building itself could serve as a day-long excursion, filled as it is with crystalline chandeliers, gilded ceilings and marble columns. Be sure to make ample time to see one of St. Petersburg's most important sites, the Palace Square.
 

St. Isaac's Cathedral

Under construction for 40 years, from 1818-1858, St. Isaac's Cathedral in St. Petersburg is one of the great attractions of Russia's second largest city. It is a massive, gold-domed edifice supported by possibly the largest red granite columns in the world. Inside, the vaulting is adorned with mosaics atop stunning green malachite and blue lapis lazuli columns, and the interior can hold 14,000 people. From the platform on the exterior of its gilded dome, there is a magnificent view of the whole of St Petersburg at your feet.

The interior is equally massive and impressive. Festooned with mosaics, there are eight green malachite and two blue lapis lazuli columns. But the stone is only a magnificent background for an even greater display. Large enough to house 14,000 visitors, it is the third largest domed cathedral on the planet. Commissioned by Alexander I to celebrate his victory over Napoleon, after years of struggle, he hired a French architect for its design. Devoting his entire career to its construction, Auguste Ricard de Montferrand had over 25,000 planks laid by 11,000 serfs to start the foundation.

Over 220 pounds of gold were melted to cover its dome. Though suffering damage from shelling during the German invasion in WWII as visitors can still see to this day, the cathedral is intact. The result is a space covered with frescoes that would be the envy of any art museum. Exterior sights are equally impressive, not least of which is the Isaakievskaya Ploshchad (St. Isaac's Square) completed in 1859. It houses a large statue of Tsar Nicholas I with the images of his wife and children on the base. Depicting Nicholas mounted on a horse atop a high pedestal, it was designed by the cathedral's architect, who died shortly afterward.

Nearby is an impressive pair of marble statues of the mythological twins Castor and Pollux. The sculptures decorate the Konnogvardeisky Manege, which once served as the barracks of the Imperial Horse Guards and now houses art exhibits. But be sure to save some strength to mount the over 500 steps to reach the 300-foot/100m high observation platform.

Viewing St. Petersburg at dusk is one of the great pleasures of travel. Here is a city that was founded to display cultural riches. Where better to do so than from one of the foremost examples of the 'Paris of Northern Europe'. St. Isaac's Cathedral is easy to reach via the Metro (St. Petersburg's subway system). Exit at Nevsky Prospekt station. The church is located at Isaakievskaya Plochad on the western end of Nevsky Prospekt.
 

Peter & Paul Fortress

Erected during the Great Northern War against Sweden, Peter & Paul fortress forms the cornerstone for the city of St. Petersburg. Though built as a bar against its then-enemy, the battles quickly moved north and it was never used to stall invaders. Instead it evolved into one of the most notorious political prisons under the harsh rule of the Tsars. But from that beginning in 1704, after only a year long construction, a mighty city grew.

Visitors can see its birthplace by crossing a footbridge and entering through St. John's Gate. Then, after buying a ticket, you'll proceed on through St. Peter's Gate, completed in 1718. Through this second entrance is the Artilleriisky Arsenal, which held the fort's armor and weapons. To the left is the Engineer's House, completed in 1749. Here you'll find exhibits detailing the history of St. Petersburg prior to the Russian Revolution of 1917.

Further on is the famed Peter and Paul Cathedral. Constructed between 1712 and 1733, it stood as the tallest structure in the city for more than two hundred years. Even then it was only surpassed by a TV tower. The building itself is a mix of Russian Orthodox and many attributes that break that mold. The architecture doesn't follow the usual formula for churches and is interesting on this account. The dome, the portico and other elements all differ from the norm.

Beginning with the founder of St. Petersburg, Peter the Great, it served as the burial place for the Tsars. The Russian monarch's tomb is marked by a bust inside. Exiting the cathedral visitors reach the Grand Ducal Crypt, completed in 1908, only 10 years before the execution of Russia's final royal family. Here, you can get a complete review of the history of the fortress.

Outside the exit is the Commandant's House, completed in 1746, that once housed the administrative offices and the courtroom. Here, many Russian met his final judgement, including many noblemen. In 1826, a group of rebels called the Decembrists were tried (and later executed) for their attempted coup d'etat. Visit the Trubetskoi Bastion and see many of the cells, still holding prisoner's clothing. Read the plaque describing the incarceration of one of its most famous inmates: Alexei, Peter the Great's own son. The appelation 'Great' isn't necessarily used to mean 'good' when applied to monarchs.

Step next door and visit Alexeivsky Bastion, which once housed Dostoyevsky. Opposite the entrance to the cathedral, on the other side of the yard, is the earliest official Mint of St. Petersburg, built in 1716, then rebuilt in 1806. Still functioning, it mints coins, medals and other official items.

If you're around at Noon you can hear the Signal Cannon get fired. Take in the view at the Neva Gate, near the river of the same name. But make sure you don't get your feet wet. The famous river can rise more than 10 feet from its average level during times of flooding. Then take a tour of its sandy shores and have a bite to eat while you watch the sunbathers. The Peter & Paul Fortress is easy to reach via the Metro (St. Petersburg's subway system). Exit at Gorkovskaya Station.
 
Peterhof

A short ride from St. Petersburg, the summer palace known as Peterhof is situated on the shores of the Gulf of Finland and is one of St. Petersburg's premier attractions. And for good reason: it's spectacular. Centered in an enormous park, it was completed in 1725 after ten years of labor by thousands of architects and artisans from all over Europe.

After the initial construction, it underwent continuing modifications throughout the rest of the century. Many were designed by the creator of many of St. Petersburg's finest landmarks, Francesco Rastrelli, the architect responsible for the Winter Palace, Smolny Cathedral and many more. Not surprisingly, many parts of the palace and grounds were damaged during WWII. But after 60 years of thorough restoration it is becoming difficult to spot where. The result is a glorious mixture of the original Baroque, 18th and 19th century modifications and careful re-creation of all the original elements.

There are numerous pavilions and smaller structures, including Peter the Great's favorite, Monplaisir (French for 'My Pleasure'). Situated near the shore, it is the perfect spot to catch a cool breeze on one of St. Petersburg's warm summer days. Another is the two-story Marly Palace, completed in 1723. The English-style Cottage Palace, completed in 1829, is also a favorite of locals and tourists alike.

The grounds once hosted many Imperial gatherings and, looking around, it's easy to see why. One of the best areas is the 16m/52ft high bluff near the shoreline. From that vantage point, visitors can see much of the grounds and take in an awe-inspiring view of Peterhof. From there, it's a fine walk across the Lower Gardens (Nizhny Sad) that make up a large portion of the total. Also from there one can see what is perhaps the primary reason that Peterhof continues to attract large crowds: the fountains. In sunlight, these famed 120 water-themed sculptures dance across the Peterhof Palace grounds.

Rightly known as the Capital of Fountains, Peterhof hosts an array that marvels the finest in Rome. The result is both an artistic and an engineering feat. Adorned with sculptures of Neptune, Chinese dragons and many other mythical figures, the entire system is plumbed together. The series contains no pumps, yet produces sprays from an ingenious system designed by the engineer Tuvolkov in the 18th century. The water and pressure arises from elevation differences among natural springs.

In the Lower Park, between the shore and the Grand Palace is one of the world's largest such systems and the source of the site's popular designation as the 'Russian Versailles'. The Upper Garden, between St. Petersburg Highway and the Grand Palace, contains five that are particularly noteworthy. Perhaps the most often visited are the Adam and Eve fountains that are placed on either side of the Sea Channel. They sit at the center of eight separate paths.

But, the Great Cascade (Bolshoi Kaskad) is one of the most beloved. Modeled after a fountain constructed by Louis XIV at Château de Marly, and located below the Grand Palace, it features a golden statue of Samson wrestling with the fabled lion. The sculpture is symbolic of Russia's victory over Sweden, whose coat of arms bears a lion. From its mouth shoots a 20m/65ft spray that is the highest at Peterhof. For over 300 years, Peterhof has astounded visitors both royal and commoner. Come see why. For an adventurous trip, try the boat ride to reach this destination about 30 minutes from downtown St. Petersburg.
 
Nevsky Prospekt

Nevsky Prospekt may sound like a great title for a spy movie, but translated it really just means Neva Avenue. Sounds ordinary, doesn't it? But, like the Champs Elysées in Paris or Broadway in New York, this road in St. Petersburg is anything but common.

One of the oldest roads in a relatively new city (Moscow is 800 years old, St. Petersburg 'only' 300), it is a thoroughfare full of outstanding sights. First laid out in 1710, only a few years after the city's founding in 1703, it stretches 5km (3 mi) along a section near the Neva River. Once subject to periodic flooding, visitors can now conveniently walk alongside the many canals that transect the road.

Along its length lie dozens of shops, restaurants and some of Russia's most outstanding architectural sights and museums. Here, between The Admiralty and the Moscow Railway Station, visitors can find many of St. Petersburg's finest things to see and do.

There is the huge neo-classical Kazan Cathedral, monuments to Catherine the Great, the Russian National Library and dozens more sights. Relatively unchanged for a hundred years, it offers an historic look at one of the world's great cities.

There is the spectacular Art Nouveau building at No. 56 completed in 1906, not far from a large bronze monument to Catherine the Great. At No. 28 is the Kazan Cathedral, with its distinctive semi-circle of 96 massive columns. Further on at No. 18 is the Literaturnaya Cafe, said to have been frequented by the Russian writer Pushkin. At No. 17, across the Moika River, is the Baroque Stroganov Palace completed in 1760. No. 15 is the site of one of the former Tsarina Elizabeth's palaces (as of 1919, the House of Arts). At No. 14 is one of the three buildings erected here since the Bolshevik Revolution.

It's notable as well for the sign that dates from the Siege of Leningrad warning locals of air raids. St. Petersburg was called Leningrad for many years until the dissolution of the Soviet system when it reverted to its historical name. Visitors to Nevsky Prospekt should be sure not to miss the shopping complex of Gostiny Dvor. Taking up the entire block, you can find a hundred things to buy. Take care, many shops don't take credit cards! Even

the grocery stores here are works of art. The Yeliseev building has enormous crystal chandeliers, gilded ceilings and stained glass windows. The Doema Tower built in 1804 is worth a look, and not far away is a fascinating Armenian Church completed in 1780. Just down the street is the former Singer Mansion, once home of the sewing machine magnate. It now houses a large book store and has some interesting architectural touches, such as a cone-shaped tower topped by a large glass globe.

Be sure to catch the Anchikov Bridge, with its magnificent four statues of men on horses near the Baroque Anitsjkov Palace, completed in 1750. Double your pleasure on Nevsky Prospekt by seeing many of the sights during the day, then take a drive down the road at night. Ablaze with lights, it's a European spectacle in this most un-Russian of cities.
 

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